Thinking Out Loud

Please nominate Theresa Lozier in the Getaway Travel Blogging Awards

2011-12-21T05:19:00.000-08:00

Thank you to everyone out there who has been following this blog, and especially to those that have sent me emails with a little of their own stories. It's been amazing to connect with incredible people from around the globe.

I'm writing now to ask for your help. If you like my writing, please nominate THERESA LOZIER in the Getaway Travel Blogging Awards. Being recognized in these awards would mean a lot and help me find more interesting writing opportunities.

Click on this link to get to the form: http://forms.getaway.co.za/view.php?id=500

Thank you everyone!
Sincerely, Theresa

Sand dunes, the African Bush and Secluded Luxury at South Africa’s 5-Star Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve

2011-10-29T10:21:00.000-07:00

After spending a few days on safari at South Africa’s iconic Shamwari Game Reserve, where I experienced the adventure of Africa’s Big 5 for the first time, I arrived at its sister property, the Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve. Positioned between the Indian Ocean and the African bush, Oceana offers guests a unique blend of luxury, privacy and nature that gives new meaning to the phrase, “getting away from it
all.”

Connected by a walkway leading through the Milkwood Forest, the seven private suites feature thatch-roofs, and stone and wooden materials that fit in with the natural environment. Benches positioned outside your door provide a place to wait in absolute stillness and quiet for the rare (and

shy) African Loerie to make an appearance. Once inside, the suites feature His and Hers appointments, from individual

cupboard space to the marbled bathsuites that waste nothing of the view.

You could be content to spend your entire stay within the comfort of your own suite, where you can enjoy spectacular East Coast sunrises from your private veranda, or even from your king-sized four-poster bed. When you want to bring the outside “in” you can do that, too – the floor-to-ceiling windows can be slid open for an unobstructed view of the land and a breath of fresh air.

Natural beauty is complimented by modern conveniences, like the flat screen television that, at the touch of a button, rises up from its hidden position from an otherwise ordinary chest of drawers at the foot of the bed. Small touches, like a personalized welcome note and a selection of complimentary South African snacks, ensure you feel like a very special guest from the start.

Oceana’s true strength is its ability to deliver impeccable service in a setting of unbelievable beauty, and its game drives, which can be arranged at any time you wish, are just another example of this winning formula. While this isn’t a Big 5 reserve, some of Africa’s most majestic and rare wildlife can be viewed here without the danger of predators. Guests are escorted by trained rangers in safari vehicles, complete with refreshments and a set of quality binoculars for each person. Use them to study the intricate markings on free roaming animals near and far – from kudu, water buck and impala to inala, blue wildebeest and zebra.

Highlights for me included a family of giraffe, including a young baby which calmly stood observing us, while we sat observing him. Then there was the endangered white rhino – which after enjoying the gaze of our cameras for several speechless moments made a sudden departure with a quick turn, click of his heels and a duck into the thick bush, leaving us with only a giant cloud of dust.

It was remarkable how such a behemoth of an animal could just “disappear” into the bush, something I’ll keep in mind the next time I think I’m “all alone” in nature!

And the final highlight for me, was an encounter with the majestic sable. Exceedingly rare, it is a beautiful sight with its arched horns and painter’s markings that frame its face in contrasting tones of stark white, black and brown.

We spotted a herd of them from a distance, and, as we bounced along the gently sloping hill to our viewing point our ranger told us how she had hand reared one of them when he was orphaned, and explained that because he had to be fed with a specially formulated milk, he had not been able to receive some of the nutrients he would have gotten in the wild, resulting in his coat becoming a distinctively lighter, copper colour compared to the rest of the herd with their dark brown coats. As we came to a stop he seemed to take notice of us, and she explained further that he did in fact recognise her yet had been accepted by the herd as part of his rehabilitation and introduction back into nature. It was beautiful to hear the love for nature in her voice and to see that such a gentle creature had been nursed back to health because of it.

At Oceana you can do the things you want, when you want – and there certainly are many options to choose between. Practice your swing on the 5-hole putting green, whale watch from the decks (June-October is the season), or find your competitive streak in the Games Room – complete with a pool table, shuffle board, and a lounge and television. Invigorate at the gym, or relax at the spa where you’ll emerge without a care in the world. Then take a drive down to the beach, accessible via a 4-wheel drive vehicle, with one of the rangers available to escort you at any time you wish.

Once at the beach you can enjoy a private lunch from the resort’s viewing platform, go fishing or take in a long walk along the dunes filled with the feeling of solitude and the sound of silence. Everywhere you look sand dunes stretch from the edge of the bush towards the sea, and each step you take seems to fall out from under your feet as you descend towards the shoreline.

This is a place that leaves you are utterly and wonderfully alone with your thoughts, free to reflect on the experience of Africa with the Indian Ocean gracing your feet and the sound of the waves in your ears. Walking at the water’s edge you’ll see a curiosity of seashells strewn out before you, and – if you’re lucky like I was – the absolute magic of wild oysters might be there for the taking!

Our ranger, visibly impressed with our find, told us with a glint in his eye how he used to walk this beach with his grandfather in search of oysters decades before. When we returned to the lodge the chef was only too happy to prepare them, serving them to us at dinner on a plate of crushed ice and fresh lemon wedges. They were some of the tastiest oysters I have ever had, complete with a champagne toast, and even the discovery of a pearl in one of the shells!

From our candlelit table I could still hear the crashing of the waves, and I knew that just beyond the balcony lie more of nature’s wonders. The cozy sounds of a crackling fire was complemented by the happy clatter of dinner conversation. It had been a day full of discovery – one I would remember forever – and as dusk fell and the stars presented themselves, I could only imagine what tomorrow would bring next.

Glamour Meets Style at Port Elizabeth’s 5-Star Shamwari Townhouse

2011-10-25T01:56:00.000-07:00

Whether you travel for business or pleasure, when you find a ‘home away from home’ that’s a bit better than what you left behind, you’ve pretty much struck ‘Road Gold’. And when it comes to Shamwari Townhouse, situated in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, you get that and more.

With its curving façade, sleek lines and indigenous gardens, you get the sense from the moment you arrive that you’re in for more than a stylish bed for the night. The original structure built in 1937 and painstakingly restored to its former glory, this is an architect’s dream. It is a space that inspires the mind, and, in the truest sense of its 1930’s Art Deco-style, the Shamwari Townhouse unabashedly carries guests away to a lavish world of sophisticated glamour, luxury and grace.

An unusual offering in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, the property reflects the passion of Adrian Gardner, founder and CEO of the world-famous Shamwari Game Reserve. Themed rooms – like the Jazz Room (notable for its six-course wine pairing menu), the Piano Lounge, Champagne Lounge and Salon Privé – feature furniture pieces with curved fronts, Fornasetti wallpaper, glass chandeliers, inlaid wood, mirrors and clean lines. Each separate space is characterized by a monotone colour scheme in soft tones of lilac, mauve, jade or turquoise, offset by light and dark wood, inset black lacquer, metallic wallpaper, chrome accents, geometric shapes and clean lines.

Classic style is complemented by modern extravagance – like the feature fountain, visible from floor-to-ceiling windows in the Jazz Room, which delivers a stream of water as smooth as glass to the pool. A private cinema,

designed with special permission by the Royal Family, was inspired by the one Prince Charles keeps in his London Residence, Clarence House. Plush carpets that sink with each padded step lead downstairs to the private Dining Cellar, the only room in the townhouse to follow the Provencal style. An oversized dark wood table set with gleaming candelabras and opulent red velvet chairs overlooks row upon row of neatly laid vintages – including French Champagne along with the South Africa’s best wines – set behind glass in climate-controlled comfort until the arrival of their day of glory.

Art, sculpture and photography by celebrated local artists – including Obie Oberholzer, Jon Riodran, Bianca Plate, and Anton Momberg – hint at the unique dimensions of a modern South Africa, making you take pause, look and reflect. The visual experience of Shamwari Townhouse is complemented by a soundtrack of iconic Jazz – the Dave Brubeck Quartet, Josephine Baker and more. One almost expects to look over and see the likes of Marlene Dietrich enjoying a long slim cigarette the lounge.

Private Guest Suites feature a more contemporary design. Secluded garden views from the private patio or balcony, an en suite lounge, dining room, kitchen complete with your very own espresso machine, king sized bedrooms and an extravagant double bathroom afford the luxury of a cleverly designed space that delivers both functionality and privacy.

The language of luxury at the Shamwari Townhouse beguiles even the most travelled of guests. A reflection of an era desperate to celebrate life’s opulence after the austerity of the First World War era, today the townhouse offers guests a boutique Art Deco experience that combines exceptional design, impeccable service and modern convenience for ultimate luxury.

South Africa’s iconic Shamwari Game Reserve – Conserving a Vanishing Way of Life, One Step at a Time

2011-10-22T02:29:00.001-07:00

On a recent trip to South Africa’s Eastern Cape, I was invited to visit the world-famous Shamwari Game Reserve where I experienced the Big 5 for the first time.

In South Africa there are only two ways of travelling – local and luxury.

’Local’ takes you to places you never knew existed. The sights, sounds and smells that can only be discovered in the moment. The townships, where haphazard shelter is built out of corrugated iron, bricks and tyres. Places where small businesses announce themselves in spray painted letters, and where life happens on street corners to the tune of gospel, hip hop and Afro-Jazz.

’Local’ is in the colourful markets packed with goods and people, moving this way and that, in organised chaos. Where the Mamas of Africa carry their babies on their backs while they walk with sacks of maize, suitcases, firewood or other awkward objects, balanced delicately on their heads.

Then there are the gathering places for transit – trains, busses and taxis – where the crowd is a heaving swarm of mixed destination. Where you are absorbed without prejudice, bumped into, sat up against, touched. In the community of Africa, the concept of personal space is as foreign as you.

As the South Africans say, “Local is lekkar!” (roughly translated, “great”) and I have to agree, but for this trip, I was in the mood for something different.

Luxury.

Luxury travel in South Africa takes to you to the places of imagination – the places you’ve dreamed of, heard about, read about – but never knew for sure if you could ever get there. It’s the place of colonial travel tales, of dreamlike postcards, the pages of National Geographic and scenes from the Discovery Channel.

This is a world of catered sustenance, crisp linen and soft beds. A world of lifetime memories available for the taking, right then and there – of crazy experiences like shark diving, sky diving, abseiling and more. Of game drives and tented safari camps, where evening conversation is graced by the distant sounds of predators while excited dinner guests trade stories of wild life encounters, adventures and triumphs. ‘Luxury’ in South Africa is not merely a way of travel – it is a destination that is not marked on maps, not tracked on Google Earth nor charted on GPS.

It is the Magic of Africa – and I wanted to find it.

Here, the wealth of a ‘United Nations in Travel’ falls like soft rain on the sometimes harsh landscape of Africa’s most southerly nation, nourishing the ground so that it can sprout anew – with jobs for the local community, investment in the local economy, and the conservation of indigenous flora and fauna – including the Big 5, and especially the Rhino.

An endangered species, the rhino has already been rescued from the brink of extinction once before in South Africa, but now it is finding itself in dire straits once again, threatened by the chaos of fortune makers, mystics and desperate cure-seekers intent on getting one thing – the horn. Of the 20 000 rhinos living in South Africa, this year 324 have already been killed illegally for their horns.

There is a crisis in the bush, and we’re running out of time – fast.

It seems a desperate situation – but the power of conservation cannot be underestimated, nor the power of public outcry, and no organisation is better placed to help bring attention to the situation than the iconic Shamwari Game Reserve, named the “World’s Leading Conservation Company & Game Reserve” for the past five consecutive years.

Shamwari, meaning ‘friend’ in Shona, is a vast reserve of 25 000 hectares of land in South Africa’s malaria-free Eastern Cape, located along the Bushman’s River, mid-way between Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown. Once densely populated by prides of the now-extinct Cape Lion and vast herds of Cape Buffalo, Zebra, Black Wildebeest, Elephant, and Rhino, this was the site of mass hunting throughout the 19^th and 20^th centuries, until all that was left was a drought-ravaged, overgrazed piece of land overtaken by exotic plant species and overrun by goats, cattle, and sheep.

It was in this context that Adrian Gardner, Shamwari chairman and founder, had a vision to bring the land back to its natural state, and starting 20-years ago, he embarked upon a re-wilding project focused on eliminating alien plant species, removing abandoned wire fencing that disrupts the natural migration of animals, and building natural dams to control erosion – all to create an area where wildlife and vegetation could be successfully restored. It is thanks to his determination that visitors to Shamwari today have a rare and precious opportunity to experience an indigenous view on South Africa – the way it was meant to be.

The destination of choice for international celebrities and royalty, Shamwari is known for its accolades and awards, including Africa’s Leading Safari Lodge, and offers plush accommodation, world-class service and exceptional game viewing. Coupled with its relentless commitment to sustainability and conservation, Shamwari highlights the impact we can have on the world, for better or worse.

The truth is, Nature needs our help – and Shamwari is showing us how.

A once forlorn stretch of land is now the thriving home to five of South Africa’s seven bio-domes. The local community that once had little hope for employment is now at the heart of a healthy economy. Orphaned elephants, injured cheetahs, ill rhinos – animals that once would not have survived – can now be saved in the Shamwari Rehabilitation Centre. Big cats that were once abused and subjected to horrific conditions in captivity around the world – have now been rescued and returned to Africa where they can have a better quality life through the Born Free Foundation and Shamwari’s two Big Cat Sanctuaries. And the precious rhino – who is now under constant threat of poaching – now has a little more hope with the protection of Shamwari’s expert and highly specialised Anti-Poaching Unit.

Operating 24-hours a day, seven days a week, rhinos are tracked using micro-chip technology. The programme is the most sophisticated and respected anti-poaching outfit in South Africa, and costs millions of dollars to operate each year. While the system can do nothing to stem the demand for rhino horn, so far it seems to be working at protecting the stock of these vulnerable wonders.

And so it was, that with the utmost of respect and admiration, I undertook a journey to Shamwari Game Reserve, where I would – for the first time in all of my travels – experience the Big 5.

Arriving at the pink walls of the entrance, flanked by the flags of nations, I daydreamed about the adventures I was about to have. While exchanging pleasantries with the guard, a sign on the gate caught my eye and sent shivers down my spine with its stark warning, in three simple words:

“Danger – wild predators.”

Instantly my mind changed gears from Daydreams on Puffy Clouds to scenes from Jurassic Park, the gates eased open and before I knew it, we were in.

I surveyed the scene – it seemed innocent enough. We drove along the wide gravel road, lined by scrubby bushes and took in the view of the rolling hills as far as the eye could see. It wasn’t long before we caught sight of a parade of elephants, not far from the road. Drinking from a pool of water, they seemed to be enjoying a pause in their daily meander. Smaller ones frolicked while the larger ones stood by, their enormous size only a fraction of the presence we were feeling. Although they seemed not to pay us much notice, the energy inside the car had just hit the roof.

After a while we carried on in spellbound silence.

We would be staying at Bayethe, one of Shamwari’s seven lodges. Upon arrival we were greeted with refreshing fruit cocktails and steaming face cloths before settling in. A subdued place, Bayethe is a collection of luxury tented huts that run along a central walkway, each tucked into their own private bush. Except at the main lodge, when everyone would gather together at meal times, trade stories and meet the new arrivals, I got the feeling that this was my own private corner of Africa, and the singsong of birds emanating from somewhere deep inside the bush, was my own serenade.

Our ‘tent’ was more like a honeymoon suite with all the luxuries one could imagine – hardwood floors, a walk-in closet with his and hers appointments, a roaring fire, a plush bedroom graced by flower petals, fluffed pillows, a personalised welcome note and handcrafted nougat, a master bathroom, an outdoor “bush” shower and an indoor bathtub of immense proportion. Outside we had our own private deck and a romantic pool. Faced with the prospect of a long bubble bath followed by wine and fireside lounging, I began to toy with the idea of tucking in for the night.

Alas, I snapped out of it reminding myself I was on a mission. It was safari time.

Back at the lodge my fellow adventure-seekers were already gathering around the Land Rover like hungry vultures. We politely introduced ourselves to our game driver, Ben, and then found ourselves silently vying for the best seats. Sizing one another up, we edged into position – in as civilised fashion as we could muster, of course, yet with all the seriousness as our wild counterparts at the nearby watering hole. We needn’t have worried– they were all great seats. One by one, we took our places amongst a confusion of blankets, hot water bottles, puffy jackets and fuzzy hats. It was afternoon and the temperature would fall, along with the sun, before our return. The diesel engine humming beneath us, we traded happy glances, revving with excitement until it was finally time to set off.

We swung uphill along the wide gravel road, the dust rising behind us like rust-coloured mist. Almost immediately we spotted a group of eight giraffe, their small faces balanced on long necks, set on smaller bodies balanced on stilt-like legs. Looking simultaneously graceful and awkward, we stopped and whispered as they chewed their cud.

Thick bush pressed up against the road’s edge, parting at times to reveal small clearings and open plains. We craned our necks and squinted at the distance, impatiently hoping for another sighting while we bounced along the road, eventually stopping at the top of a ridge where we could see a herd of buffalo dotting the landscape. Looking through the binoculars the hairs on my neck started to stand on end when I got a glimpse of golden lumps, huddled in the long grass under a tree. A pride of lions, getting a last rest before hunting time. We sat in the quiet stillness, whispering and murmuring to one another. When we had all got our fill, our game ranger turned off onto a smaller passageway that would take us deeper into the wildness.

The narrow path we followed twisted and turned, and the thorns of the trees we moved through seem to reach out and tear at the canvas above our heads. Rushing through pot holes, dips and bumps, the lane sometimes vanished beneath us until we found it again in abrupt landings that threatened the wellbeing of elbows, knees, and bottoms.

Before long we came to a clearing and stopped. There they were – elephants – and they were walking in our direction. I hugged my hot water bottle closer, hoping for some sort of comfort. One elephant alone was larger than the Land Rover and all seven of its occupants alone. They snorted and probed us with their eyes, all the while pulling noisily at the bush with their elegant trunks, making loud ripping sounds with each twist. Not phased, they carried on watching us, lifting clumps of grass and dirt to their wet mouths, before grasping and ripping out more.

We waited in absolute silence – no one dared move an inch. They were so close now I could see the tiny hairs protruding from their leathery skin, which hung from their haunches like an oversized shirt that had lost its shape. Seconds stretched into ages as we held our collective breath, our eyes fastened on their eyes, while a baby elephant scuttled between the matriarch’s trunk-like legs and raspy tail, unaware that we were locked in a moment that would be ingrained in our memories forever.

Although our hearts were warm, the air now carried a chill and the sun rays began to pierce glory through the clouds. We carried on, snaking along the river until we came upon a brown hyena, the rarest kind. He looked ragtag with bristling long hair on his body but short, spotty hair on his legs – and like a celebrity who knows they’re about to appear on the ‘Worst Dressed’ list he quickly escaped the gaze of our cameras, disappearing into behind the next ridge.

In the quiet of the bush Ben’s walkie-talkie suddenly came alive. It was another game driver who had spotted a leopard, the most elusive of all the members of the Big 5. Disappointment about the brown hyena’s early departure was but a distant memory as we set off in the direction where the leopard had been seen.

As we neared we could see the Land Rover of the other game driver pulled off to the side. We slowed and approached quietly, and although we were in a flush of excitement, we spoke to one another in hushed tones. The ranger motioned to a place in the thick bush and I peered through my binoculars to see a gruesome scene – the fresh carcass of a Kudu lay balanced among the branches of the tree. Still supple, shredded muscle swayed in the breeze. Sure enough, the leopard was nearby, guarding his kill. He seemed aware of us but stayed aloof, not paying us any mind, just like a house cat that’s not in the mood. He graced us with only a view of his rump, keeping the rest of his powerful body tucked just out of sight.

It was just as well – we had seen a leopard in the most extraordinary of circumstances – we had seen more than enough.

After some time we moved off again, this time in the direction of Bayethe. Ready to get home for the night, we would shortly collide with one more encounter.

It was just before sunset. The last dusting of light fell upon the landscape, illuminating it in rich, golden hues. Daytime seemed to take one last breath as Night’s long, shadowing fingers held her in their embrace. A place in the distance seemed to glow, drawing my eye towards it and suddenly I saw them, standing quietly, gently, munching on succulents.

A family of rhinos.

I studied them closely, choosing to focus on one in particular in the waning light. Most of his face was covered in the dark shadow his great horn – just one aspect of his power but now the form of his greatest vulnerability.

He looked at me – curiously – his small, soft eye taking me in. Was I a threat? Did he need to worry?

He carried on grazing – the most powerful vegetarian on the planet – watching me from behind his mass of armour. He seemed to relax. I was an innocent tourist, and he was safe – for now.

As we turned to leave I knew I had found what I had come here looking for – the Magic of Africa, alive and well.

Five Flies Restaurant & Bars – A Contemporary, Cape Town Classic

2011-10-19T03:20:00.000-07:00

Named after an iconic Amsterdam restaurant, Cape Town’s elegant and historic Five Flies has become an institution for fine dining with social flair to boot. Not your average watering hole, Five Flies is positioned in the city's legal district, spanning two 18th century buildings, both recognised as National Monuments.

The buildings, used at one time as the home of the Netherlands Club and later as a bank – form a maze of nine dining rooms, including both public and private spaces. Defined by original dark wood panels, ancient tiles and interlinking marble staircases, six layers of paint were removed to reveal ancient friezes making it impossible not to feel the significance of the place.

Some of the rooms are themed – like the Madiba Room, filled with clocks that represent the time Nelson Mandela sacrificed imprisoned, so that we might see a freer South Africa, and the Wine Cellar – originally the bank’s vault, where the fortunes of pioneering entrepreneurs would have been placed for safe-keeping . Now it is a candlelit space reserved for occasions of the heart. From the main dining room to the upstairs bar and the much-loved cigar lounge, the vibe of the place is sophisticated Cape Town, hip and bustling.

All of this is interlinked by the centre cobblestone courtyard, which fills the place with the light that streams from its double-volume atrium. Characterised by exposed stone – as old as the Castle of Good Hope itself – it features an ancient well that is connected to the city’s little-known web of underground canals – a secret that presents itself in the form of bubbles when it rains.

The lunch offering, popular with the legal set, is focused on fare that’s as wholesome and fresh as it is fast and affordable. When you consider the options – think Chargrilled Tandoori Chicken Burger with Lime and Coriander Yoghurt, or Ceaser Salad with Roast Chicken, Cos Lettuce, Rosemary Croutons, Shaved Pecorino and Anchovy Dressing – you might just decide to leave your ‘usual’ for the birds.

The dinner menu, on the other hand, is characterised by contemporary classics that require the luxury of time to enjoy to their fullest. Seafood lovers will delight with the Seared Norwegian Salmon, served with fresh Spinach & Cream, Sweet Corn Ravioli, Port Jus & Thyme Foam, while devoted fans of ‘turf’ will enjoy the ever-popular Braised Lamb Shank on White Onion Puree with Colcannon Mashed Potato, Onion Fritters and Red Wine Jus.

Jo-Ann During, owner of Five Flies, explains, “We are striving to create a new dining culture in this unique part of Cape Town. We’re not interested in turning tables. We want to treat our guests to the complete package. We want patrons to come to Five Flies to enjoy a special gourmet evening that allows them to savour time with good friends, over exceptionally good food.”

From the uniquely historic setting, to food that is pushing the boundaries and a social vibe to match - I think it must be said, she's on to something.

Getting Carried Away at Plettenberg Bay’s Grand Café & Rooms

2011-10-14T04:32:00.000-07:00

The Grand Credo: I lose myself, and surprisingly find myself, within the candle-lit alleys of The Grand. Though gasping for breath I feel amplified, glorified, beautified. The glamour intoxicates me. The décor mesmerizes me. All for happiness.

Dark was falling as we arrived. The weather had turned foul, windy and threatening with rain. Tired after a long journey, I was thinking of the usual cures – a soak in the tub, a little TV, nothing too exciting – just glad to have a bed for the evening.

But that was all about to change.

We had arrived at The Grand Café & Rooms – a sprawling pink mansion, perched high on the hill in the centre of Plettenberg Bay. We climbed the stairs, heaved open the wooden door – ornately carved and oversized – and crossed the threshold into another world.

gotten there – while the stuffed leopard in the adjacent reading lounge, slung over the back of a vintage sofa – seemed to stare at us, his face turned permanently in an unnerving growl.

The café was warm and inviting – a massive fire glowed ‘hello,’ while the dining room – enrobed in shades of deep red and pink, glittering with the reflection of candlelight on silver candelabras – whispered, ‘romance’ in between table settings of red roses and gleaming champagne flutes on crisp white linen. The walls – filled with photographs of old friends and handwritten postcards from far-flung places – spoke of good times and glamour days. A decadent cake display, where each delight was housed in its own glass castle, shouted ‘indulgence’. Hunting trophies – the heads of kudu and wildebeest – overlooked the room with an oddly surprised gaze – as if they were wondering how they had

Eccentric and chic, dark and moody – the ambiance at The Grand certainly makes an impression, and we were only just getting started.

Our host led us past the terrace plunge pool with its millionaire’s view of the sea, through a series of enclosed courtyards and private spaces to reach our room. More like an apartment from somewhere in Paris, the oversized 4-poster bed seemed to take centre-stage. My suspicions were confirmed when our soft-spoken host motioned in its direction, “It’s all about sex” she said, blushing, “at least that’s the idea.”

Uncommonly tall, the posters were formed in dark wrought-iron, rising up like the slender trunks of an elegant tree, suspending the bed in mid-air like a floating cloud. A velvet-clad footstool, imprinted with the delicate wings of an angel (perhaps on her way to heaven) stood by.

The adjoining lounge-cum-bathroom featured a plush, red velvet sofa, more candles and roses, bath with a private view overlooking the sea. The fatigue of the road was a distant memory as we popped the champagne and danced to the beat of Afro-jazz before returning downstairs for a bistro-style dinner in the lavish café. Starting with oysters (what else) we nibbled on fresh seafood and sipped (more) champagne, ending with – arguably – the Garden Route’s most deliciously concentrated and foamy cappuccinos.

The vibe was exuberant – the candlelight invigorating – and we had somehow found ourselves in a glamorous moment of carefree abundance. The transformation was complete. We lost ourselves and found ourselves – totally and utterly seduced – in everything that’s Grand.

Win a 5-course Gourmet Dinner for Two Valued over R1000 at Overture, one of South Africa's Top Restaurants

2011-09-23T00:21:00.001-07:00

With its million-dollar view over Stellenbosch's Helderberg Mountains, and a dining experience that’s to-die-for, most can only dream of dining at Overture Restaurant, one of South Africa’s Top Ten Restaurants and the creation of esteemed Chef, Bertus Basson. But this month you might just get what you wish for – FinePlaces.co.za is giving away a 5-course dinner for two people, including Hidden Valley wine pairings.
Tell your friends and you'll double your chances - gentleman's rules guarantee you the guest seat at the table!

There are two ways to enter: Like the FinePlaces Facebook page or Tweet this link: http://www.fineplaces.co.za/?p=1304

GOOD LUCK!

Life in South Africa

2011-07-01T03:55:00.000-07:00

I've posted this story before... but I've had such an amazing response I thought I'd share it again. Thank you to everyone who has taken the time to write to me and share a little of their own stories with me. It's amazing to think we can connect over a few taps on the keyboard. Cheers!

A while ago I received an email from an American woman living in Asia, who is married to a South African and contemplating relocating to Cape Town. She asked for my thoughts on life here, in the long and the short term. She wondered about the things you hear in the news – the negative explanation points that seem to encompass a place, deservedly or not. Her email really got me thinking about my own experience here. I took my time to craft my reply to her and wanted to share it with you as well – I hope you’ll enjoy my candid response:

Dear friend-

Thanks very much for your mail. I’m sorry it’s taken me so long to come back to you. The truth is, your question kind of intrigued me and at first I wasn’t really sure what I would say. In a way I feel that it’s a privilege to share my perspective with you as you make this very important decision, and at the same time it is a huge responsibility to respond to you with honesty. Ultimately only you know whether moving to South Africa is a good decision for you. You might already know the answer you are seeking, somewhere deep inside.

My story in South Africa began a long time ago, in 1998, when I came here as a study-abroad student in university. At the time I didn’t know much about SA. I had heard about Nelson Mandela and apartheid and was fascinated with the idea of “Africa” – but otherwise I came with a mostly blank page, innocence, excitement and pure joy. I had always dreamt I would travel – and I couldn’t believe how lucky I was to finally board that plane and awake to sunrise over the Kalahari.

While I was here studying I fell in love. We met amidst the Southern Hemisphere’s largest sand dunes, in Alexandria. It’s a place not too far from Port Elizabeth where the dunes pile up like mountains. The view from the top makes friends at the bottom look like ants, far away, and then the blonde giants tumble down dramatically to the edges of the sea. I grew up in land-locked Pennsylvania and had never seen such harsh and abrupt beauty.

I went back to the States to finish my studies and six years went by. I had a new life but something was always missing for me. Eventually I had the chance to come to South Africa for a three-week holiday and then everything changed. I reunited with the friend I had fallen for before and we travelled together to the Transkeii on the East coast and had one of the most amazing times of my life. Those 21 days were full of turning points for me and memories that still make me smile – New Year’s Eve fireworks on a wild coast, feeling the humid tropical weather, driving through pouring rain and waving to locals who walked slowly, the same as they would on any other day, camping on a hillside next to a village where people live in huts, don’t have electricity and cows roam the beach. It was a world away, even now, and it helped me make my decision to move here, to be with this wonderful person and to carry that feeling of absolute freedom every day.

A year and three months later I moved here. It was difficult to leave my “old home” for my new one. I sold off most of my things, packed what I could, and arrived full of anticipation. I never looked back, even though this hasn’t been an easy journey. It took me a long while to make new friends and really feel like this is my home. My professional life was also full of adjustment and at first, cultural misunderstandings that proved frustrating. Soon after I arrived I personally experienced crime – something which served as the biggest stumbling block for me in adjusting here since it destroyed my sense of confidence and for a while, my free spirit. But time heals all things and now I can say I am living the life I dreamt I would live.

In the long run South Africa will present you with financial challenges – the rand does not go very far which makes international travel and every day shopping a budgeting exercise. There is talk of a national policy to weaken the rand further, making exported goods cheaper and more competitive but meaning that imports are that much more expensive. Crime is a reality that affects many people. The nation is awash in “transformation” and Black Economic Empowerment and while this is good for many it creates special challenges for white South Africans. The price of electricity is rising at a rate of 30+% each year. Quality education comes at a high price and with a good dose of competition for the limited classroom seats. The public healthcare system is troubled – there are stories in the news of hospitals having to close due to copper wire theft, babies dying due to unsanitary conditions. The president is a polygamist with five wives but still there are stories of his fathering children with other women out of wedlock – making his position as a role model in a nation awash in rising HIV / AIDS rates difficult to believe. Life in South Africa can be first world in some places, in some experiences, in some lifestyles – yet there are stripes of third world realities, struggles and corruption and the two sides cannot help but intersect at some points.

In the short term South Africa will offer you a beautiful life with wild and wondrous scenery, awe inspiring weather, joyous discoveries and memories for a life time. We’ve been to Mozambique where I slept next to the beach, snorkelled in clear warm water, ate prawns and discovered that at night there are hundreds, maybe thousands of crabs that come out and scamper along the sand. I’ve seen the greatest sand dunes of Namibia, in Sossusvlei, where the grains at the peak form a snake-like dragon highlighted by the first light of dawn. We camped in Etosha National Park and clung to our pillows while Honey Badgers snorted outside, in search of food and by day watched elephants and zebra drink at the watering hole. We walked in the zone of leopards and heard hyena at night in the distance. I’ve climbed to the peak of Monk’s Cowl in the mighty Drakensberg Mountains, 18 hours of steady walking, exhausted and exalted at the end. I’ve spent time learning to surf in the frigid Atlantic and the warm Indian Oceans. I’ve been surprised by a giant purple-domed jellyfish and later laughed at my own freak out. I am learning bits of Afrikaans and surprise locals by throwing in a word or two while talking. People are generally quite curious about me as an American and are inquisitive about life in the States and how I came to be here. I now live in Cape Town, one of the world’s most beautiful cities. We laugh that on weekends spent at home we still feel like we’re on holiday with all of the amazing things to discover. I’ve grown into a better person and learn new things every day. I miss my friends and family – and reunions are that much sweeter. I think about the things that are important to me and thank the universe for allowing me to be so lucky.

What happens to one person will never happen exactly to another – we each have our own path – and for that reason I think we must each make our own decisions. I hope you will make your decision carefully but believe that a dose of light heartedness goes a long way, and that sometimes the decisions made with our hearts are the most powerful ones of all. Thank you for the opportunity to share my story with you.

Wishing you all the best from the fairest cape in the whole circumference of the globe,

Theresa

150 Wine Farms, 40 Years of Perfection, 1 Amazing Wine Festival

2011-06-17T09:47:00.000-07:00

From oysters, whales, jazz and daisies to cheese, olives, food and wine, it seems we have a festival for just about anything these days. Filled with stand after stand, sometimes our big day out turns into a big crowd-induced headache! But thankfully, there are still a few festivals where a truly authentic experience can still be had.

That’s right, it’s time to save the date for the 10^th annual Stellenbosch Wine Festival, to be held 28-31 July at the Paul Roos Centre, preceded by Wine Week, from 22-31 July, when visitors can partake in rare and exclusive cellar door experiences at participating estates. This year will be the most exuberant celebration ever, marking the Stellenbosch American Express ® Wine Routes’ 40^th anniversary and its unwavering focus on something that distinguishes not only the Cape, but South Africa, on a world stage. What’s that, you ask?

Wine.

Of course even the grandest of wines would feel lonely without its two best friends in tow – Great Food and Even Better Company – and visitors can look forward to the trio during the festivities. Not about big crowds, expo stands or secret charges, visitors can experience an honest good time spent indulging in conversation with their favourite winemakers, swirling up to 500 different wines (selectively, of course) and irresistible winter warmers – hearty meals planned to pair to perfection. Visitors have the rare treat of enjoying their favourite iconic estates – from Delheim, Simonsig and Kanonkop to Neethlingshof, Le Riche, De Trafford, Warwick Estate and many more – either under one roof, or at the cellar door.

With so much to look forward to, I spent some time chatting with Annareth Bolton, CEO of the Stellenbosch American Express® Wine Routes, about what makes Stellenbosch such a special place, and what visitors can look forward to at this year’s festival:

With 150 farms, the Stellenbosch American Express® Wine Routes offer something for almost everyone. Tell me about some of its most memorable highlights?

Being the heart of the Cape Winelands, we are seen as the pioneers of wine tourism. The Cape Dutch architecture is a big draw card, while the modern tasting rooms and restaurants have inspired many visitors to come back time and again. Spending only one day in Stellenbosch, you can taste wine with a rugby legend, go on a game drive, enjoy lunch at a top 10 restaurant, try your hand at fly-fishing, visit a wine museum and mingle with the locals.

The Wine Route has grown immensely since being formed 40-years ago – what are some of the most exciting innovations since the early days?

In 1971, when the wine route was formed, no tasting or purchasing was allowed at wine farms. There were no road signs or maps, let alone restaurants and guests houses on farms. This really was the start of wine tourism in South Africa, and many have followed suit. We now have hundreds of thousands of visitors, which led to a thriving industry which contributes to job creation, skills development and international recognition. When I started the Sundays in Stellenbosch campaign five years ago, only a handful of farms and restaurants were open, while we now have over 65 farms open on a Sunday, offering kids entertainment, informative wine-tastings, hiking-trails, picnics and world-class restaurants. Social responsibility is at the order of the day, with crèches for farm children, local employment, and a drive towards supporting local business. It really is a winning model for all.

Stellenbosch was recently recognised as the “2011 Wine Town of the Year” by Sweden’s prestigious Munskänkarna wine club, the first time a city outside of the European Union has been bestowed such an honour. What do you believe helped distinguish Stellenbosch above all the other contenders?

This is a truly wonderful honour and opportunity for Stellenbosch. South Africa currently holds 20,5% of the market share in the Swedish wine market, making us the largest exporter to their country. We are a world leader in wine tourism, with annual awards bestowed to our members. I really believe that my predecessors at this organisation have done a great job of promoting our excellent wines – a study has shown that consumers recognise Stellenbosch as a wine brand before South Africa. Now our focus is on promoting all that surrounds the bottle of wine, in other words the tourism offerings. We are picking the fruits of our hard work, and this recognition as one of the world’s greatest wine destinations, is well deserved!

Sustainability is gradually becoming a more prominent consideration both in the eyes of the industry and the consumer – how are the members of the Stellenbosch Wine Route embracing sustainability – and do you believe it impacts upon the quality of the wine?

Stellenbosch soil and properties are some of the most expensive in the world. It would be much easier to develop it all into housing and golf estates, but that is not the legacy we want to leave for the ones following in our footsteps. I think farming in Stellenbosch is one of the hardest financial things you can be busy with at the moment, but also the most rewarding. Someone once said that the people from Stellenbosch will be disappointed when they get to heaven! We have a great responsibility, which we take very seriously, and once again we are leading the industry when it comes to carbon neutrality, solar energy, bio-diversity, restoring indigenous plants and trees, and looking after our wildlife. A truly inspiring town to live in!

These days there are many wine festivals – tell me about some of the unique experiences visitors can have, that help make this festival the one that is “not to be missed.”

The Stellenbosch Wine Festival is the oldest in the country, and this year we are celebrating its 10^th birthday in its current format at Paul Roos Centre. It is a wonderful opportunity to taste up to 500 wines, all under one roof. The opening night, the wine connoisseurs evening, is where you can meet the winemakers, in a relaxed and warm atmosphere. All the wines on show are available to purchase at special festival prices, in order for you to stock up you collection. Friday is our social evening, with live entertainment, food demonstrations and signature dishes from local restaurants participating in our gourmet lane. Saturday is our busiest day, while Sunday is family day, with a secure and fun environment for the kiddies, while mom and dad enjoy good company and music. We have shuttles from the V&A Waterfront, Canal Walk, Tygervalley, Paarl, Franschhoek and Somerset West, enabling all to arrive safely back home. We offer historical walks through town, fantastic accommodation specials, and the restaurants are all ready to welcome you with warm winter dishes and roaring fires.

If you could name just two things that make Stellenbosch special to you – what would they be?

The mountains surrounding our town make this a very special place to be. There is always something to do in our town – whether it’s attending a production in one of our theatres, live music, art exhibitions, mountain biking, wine tasting, shopping, drinking coffee in one of the many corner cafés, you will never be anything but inspired and entertained.

THE DETAILS

Tickets to the Stellenbosch Wine Festival range from R120 per person per day for online bookings (in advance, at www.webtickets.co.za) or R140 at the door, to R350 for the Golden Pass for the entire festival. The entry fee to the opening of the festival, an exclusive Wine Connoisseurs Evening from 16h00 till 21h00 on Thursday, 28 July, is R160 per person for online bookings or R180 at the door and includes gourmet delights

Whether your wallet is feeling light or loaded, you’re bound to find an accommodation packages that suits – click here for a comprehensive list
For more information call 021 886 4310 or visit www.wineroute.co.za

The Perfectly Posh Petite Pongrácz

2011-06-05T23:27:00.000-07:00

It could have been a scene out of a James Bond movie. Sunset over Cape Town, onboard a yacht, surrounded by beautiful people, fresh oysters and Pongrácz bubbly on ice. A view to kill. One could be forgiven for thinking 007 himself might emerge from the water, straight from Russia with love, and board the vessel in his dripping scuba gear, especially since he is in fact in town, filming the latest in the series, Carte Blanche.

Alas, it was not to be.

Not that I minded – who needs the spy who loved me when you already feel like a millionaire? It’s not every day you get to cruise out towards the horizon with a flute of Pongrácz in hand, taking in the view of the V&A Waterfront, Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill.

It was a spectacular celebration onboard the Tigger Too, a 55 foot luxury catamaran cruiser. Guests were served elegant canapés complemented by the über posh Petite Pongrácz, the new 375ml sized bottle that put the sparkle into any occasion, whether for bigger affairs when they ensure each glass served is chilled and crispy fresh, or your eyes only.

Eventually the bliss had to come to an end. One thing’s for sure, with times like these you don’t need to live twice.

The Details

The singularly noble Pongrácz and Pongrácz Rosé were named South Africa’s top Non-vintage and Rosé in the highly contested 2010 Wine Amorim Cap Classique Challenge
An exceptional blend of the classic Champagne varietals, Pinot noir and Chardonnay, Pongrácz is set apart by its crisp green apple tones and the nuttiness of freshly baked bread. The Rosé with its salmon hue is enchantingly dry with a wonderful foamy mouthful of black berry fruit and delicate yeasty notes that balances superbly with a dry palate.
The Pongrácz 375ml is available at approximately R58 and the Rosé at around R68 per bottle at selected wine shops, trendy bars and restaurants. For more information, visit www.pongracz.co.za
The Tigger 2 Royale is a 55 foot luxury catamaran cruiser based in Cape Town’s Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. It features a beautifully streamlined exterior and plush white leather interior. To plan your own Petit Pongrácz Party visit www.tiggertoo.co.za

Newton Johnson's Dance with Pinot Noir

2011-06-04T04:44:00.000-07:00

For Pinot Noir enthusiasts, the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near Hermanus is like the Garden of Eden with more award-winning Pinots made here than any other place in South Africa. This is a true feat considering Pinot, known to some as the “heartbreak grape,” is the most difficult variety of grape, presenting challenges both in the vineyard and in the cellar. The climate of the valley plays an obvious role in the success its wine estates but I wondered if there wasn’t something more to the story so I spent an afternoon chatting with two of the Valley’s most renowned winemakers, Gordon and Nadia Newton Johnson.

From the start of our chat it became evident that Pinot Noir has captured not only their attention, but also their hearts. The couple spoke passionately, describing it as finicky yet elegant, beautiful, soft and expressive of the terroir where it is grown.

Nadia: “Once you’ve worked with Pinot there’s no turning back – you either fall in love with it or you...” Gordon: “... or you don’t understand it and push it aside.” Nadia finishes, “You just decide, ‘no’. But if its grabbed you – that’s it.”

Pinot’s expression of terroir is the one characteristic the Newton Johnson’s focus on the most, acknowledging that terroir differentiates their Pinot from others produced in the valley:

Gordon: “I think we’ve gone further to discover what Pinot will do on soils within the valley. There are different expressions between the Pinot that we’re making compared to what other wine estates in the Valley are making.” Nadia continues, “Clay soil holds a lot of nutrients and iron – it almost forms the backbone of the wine, gives it a dark, bigger kind of structure. But our soils are a little lighter, not as much clay. As soon as you take Pinot to lighter soils it becomes more fragrant, almost prettier, more beautiful. I think that’s where we are with our Pinots.”

Not only is the couple single-minded about their passion for Pinot, but also towards their hands-on approach to winemaking:

Nadia: “Sometimes people don’t understand two winemakers. When it comes to the styling of the wine we make those decisions together. Gordon, “We’re interchangeable.” Nadia, “That’s the thing – we’re so interchangeable. Between the paperwork and whatever work needs to be done in the winery it doesn’t matter which one of us does it. And we actually do the work physically ourselves – we believe that all those little bits that you put in make the difference between making a great wine or just a good wine.”Gordon: “Some of our wines are expensive, we’re getting more expensive. We feel we’ve got to be hands-on to maintain that level and take it further. We’re not just winery owners, we are wine makers. We always want to be that – we always want to have that connection with the winery and the vineyards.”

Thinking of the future, the couple are focused on developing more sustainable processes on the farm, like water conservation, and are moving away from the use of artificial influences like pesticides, fertilizers and added yeast. Although more challenging, they prefer a more natural approach which they believe will positively impact the soils in the long term, and help create an even more unique expression of terroir in their wines.

Gordon, “Water is a big part of sustainability, and we have a whole water treatment plant here. It takes 9 litres of water to make 1 litre of wine, so any waste water we create, we recycle it and put back into the water table. We also keep away from pesticides and prefer to treat our insect pests biologically with the release of natural predators, like Lady Birds and wasps. We’re also moving away from synthetic fertilizers – and are moving towards using the waste on our farm instead. These are all small steps towards becoming more sustainable.” Nadia, “We need to keep our soils alive and strong – that’s the most important thing. And as we become more sustainable we have noticed a major change in our wine – it makes us more individual. It’s really amazing to see how far you can take it – to see the qualities in the soil that can be expressed by a wine.”

It was an absolute treat to be able to spend time getting to know the Newton Johnsons. The key to their success seems to lie in their passion – passion for Pinot, for what they do, for preserving the land for another generation. If Pinot is a heart-break grape for some it’s certainly not for the Newton Johnsons – for them it’s a love affair, and so it’s no surprise their wine has seen such success. After all, it’s handcrafted with love – and anything made with love tastes better.

Newton Johnson is located in the upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley just outside Hermanus on the R320. Stop in for wine tasting & buying, or have lunch at the stunning Heaven Restaurant with to-die-for-views of the valley. For more information, visit www.NewtonJohnson.com

Country Life and Everything Nice

2011-04-27T06:20:00.000-07:00

Whether you’re an equestrian, an epicurean, or an urban escapee – getting away from it all in Noordhoek gets you more than what you started with.

I’m standing in a curious place – a place like no other in the world. A bold statement, I know – afterall, none of the usual excitements exist here. No dazzling city lights, shopping meccas or restaurant rows, no glitz nor glamour. Yet it’s precisely in this emptiness – in what is not here – that this place gains value. It’s a place with an abundance of that curious country feeling – that something that ticks inside of us in the face of long sandy beaches framed by bushveld, dunes and a milkwood forest. This is a place where the wind has a way of ruffling your hair and carrying any form of status away like so many grains of sand, and where the excited thrill of urban exultation peters out like a tiny stream in the face of the ocean’s vastness.

This is Noordhoek, a small corner on the fringe of cosmopolitan Cape Town – overlooked by some, passed through by others. For the rest of us, the local’s term “Noordhoeked” has meaning. Only 35-minutes from the centre of Cape Town, just getting here is a spectacular journey through Camp’s Bay and her Twelve Apostles, along the coast past Llandudno, Hout Bay and her faithful Sentinel, and culminating along one of the world’s most famous roads – Chapman’s Peak Drive.

Just two narrow lanes carved into the side of an impending cliff-face that extends 600 meters over your head and falls nearly as far into the crashing Atlantic below, it offers the kind of driving that inspires the dreams of motoring enthusiasts and colours the knuckles of their not-so-adventurous companions gleaming white. If you can pry you eyes away from the road you’ll be lavished with 180-degree panoramic views over the blue Atlantic, across the white sands of Noordhoek’s 8-kilometer long beach, until the last few rocky outcrops of the peninsula curve just out of sight.

The roads 114 twists and turns eventually deliver you to Noordhoek where you’re greeted by Cape Point Vineyards, home to some of South Africa’s most highly acclaimed wines, including Sauvignon Blancs that make regular appearances in the 5-star John Platter SA Wine Guide rankings and which have easily broken through the 90-point benchmark set by Wine Spectator for “outstanding wines of superior character and style”. Not widely available, these wines are a true reflection of the local terroir and the perfect welcome in a glass.

Next stop, go for a meander in the Village – the tourism office is located here along with a collection of shops and restaurants, not least of which is the humbly-named Food Barn. The chef, Franck Dangereux, spent his early years training in 3-Michelin starred restaurants in France before eventually joining the team at Constantia Uitsig’s La Colombe, where his influence helped make it one of the world’s top 50 restaurants. Now he’s realising his dream of running his own restaurant and spending more time with his young family. You can choose to dine in or shop the deli for a bounty of culinary delights – locally sourced artisanal cheese, olives and spreads, even quiches and to-die-for gourmet sandwiches. Did I mention the on-site bakery? Only those of merciless willpower can withstand the temptations of the multitude of fresh cakes, pastries and bread that seem to stand in formation like a small army intent on liberating your waistline.

Once you’ve made your contribution towards the ‘Battle of the Bulge,’ make your way towards the Common where you can spread out your treasures for a casual picnic, wander along the babbling stream where hundreds of Arum lilies bloom in springtime, or get to know the equine beauties resting in the adjacent paddocks. No ordinary creatures, these gentle beasts with their soft, chestnut eyes and curious nature are mostly investments of the purebred kind. If you fancy a sunset ride along the beach, never fear – the folks at Sleepy Hollow Horse Riding just down the lane will completely kit you out with riding gear, a safety lesson and a trusty (if semi-retired) steed.

Following the road towards the beach, you’ll come across the Red Herring – a local institution that hosts formal wine and food pairing evenings next to a roaring fire. Upstairs you’ll also find Skebanga’s, a casual pub famous for its range of pizzas, rooftop terrace and local flair. Live music is also a regular feature.

Just across the road you’ll find the turnoff to Monkey Valley – a collection of timber chalets nestling in the embrace of the Milkwood forest. My favourite is along a private pathway towards the beach, complete with a wraparound terrace and a millionaire’s view – 180-degrees of undeveloped bush, a seasonal lagoon (and occasional home to migrating pink flamingos), and unspoilt beach – all wrapped up in the sounds of the sea. Sitting on your terrace, the sun starts to set. The horses and their riders appear as if on cue, making their daily formations across the sand. It’s Golden Hour now – the dunes are rich in colour from green to dark brown and billowy yellow. A little later the sounds of frogs present themselves, punctuating the silence of nature.

If you’re lucky, the rare Leopard Toad might make a quick appearance while fireflies dance on the horizon, as if to add their glow the sky now radiating hues of yellow, orange, pink and purple. One by one, thousands of twinkling lights join in the chorus, illuminating the sky as it gradually grows darker – not dazzling city lights this time – but stars.

THE DETAILS

Where to Eat:

The Food Barn: Restaurant (reservations a must) and Deli; www.thefoodbarn.co.za
The Red Herring (formal) or Skebanga’s Sunset Bar (local is lekker): www.theredherring.co.za

Where to Stay:

Monkey Valley: Live like a millionaire, if only for one night in these private, self-catering chalets; Restaurant on on-site; www.monkeyvalleyresort.com

What to Do:

Cape Point Vineyards: Wine Tasting options priced at R10, R30 or R50; Mon-Fri 09h00-17h00, Sat 10h001700 and Sun 10h00-16h00; www.noordhoekvineyards.co.za
Shopping at the Village
Picnic in the Common
Beach Walk
Sleepy Hollow Horse Riding: 2-hour beach trail from R400 per person; www.sleepyhollowhorseriding.co.za

Scenic Drives of South Africa

2011-03-13T00:16:00.000-08:00

Few things in life bring to mind such idyllic thoughts of freedom than the road trip – of driving through wide open spaces, the wind in your hair and the thought that you can go just about anywhere. Most visitors to South Africa have heard of the Garden Route, but with its stunning natural landscape, impressive rock formations and deep gorges, South Africa has even more to offer. Try one of these rides on for size and you’re guaranteed a view you’ll remember for a lifetime:

Camp’s Bay to Chapman’s Peak, Cape Town

Begin your journey just 5-min from the City Bowl. The well-maintained road descends into the arms of famed Camp’s Bay, framed on your left by the Twelve-Apostles, part of the Table Mountain range, and on your right by the sea. The road hugs the mountains and meanders south through Hout Bay, culminating along Chapman’s Peak Drive where dramatic rust-coloured cliff-faces extend above before succumbing to the crashing sea below.

Sani Pass, Drakensberg

This drive is not for the faint-hearted, the novice driver, nor the average rental car. The landscape is stark, the road is unpaved and potholed, and don’t even think about the state of the guardrail (there isn’t one). One treacherous hairpin curve after another, this adventure road climbs up into the clouds until you reach the mountain kingdom of Lesotho where you’ll want to calm your nerves with a drink at the highest pub in Africa.

Swartberg Pass, Klein Karoo

Between Oudsthoorn's Cango Caves and Prince Albert, this unpaved road tip-toes along the mountain’s edge offering sweeping views of the shrubby Karoo-landscape far below, a gentle welcome before it takes you on a journey of secrets, bobbing and weaving its way through canyon rockwalls as old as fossils, giant proteas that flower pink and yellow in season, and endless varieties of the fynbos so unique to South Africa.

Route 62, Western Cape

Rolling vineyards, tidy farmhouses and quaint country villages give way to the dry openness of the Karoo between Ashton and Oudsthoorn on this scenic alternative to the N2, dubbed the longest wine route in the world. On a summer’s day the heat along this route rises in shimmering waves – if it’s too much, take one of the many roads heading south towards the sea where you might be lucky enough to find a cooling waterfall bursting from the craggy mountain face.

Seweweekspoort, Klein Karoo

The lines in the jagged rock walls that line either side of this narrow road reveal the crushing tectonic power that formed them – vertical lines slope to horizontal and back again. Hues of red, orange and yellow blanket the space. In the quiet of centuries, one can’t help but think back to the days of pioneers, when this keyhole through the seeming impenetrable mountains provided a merciful escape from the hardships of the interior.

Humble and Historic – Tulbagh Awaits

2011-03-07T12:11:00.000-08:00

Tulbagh. It’s a place that’s just out of reach but one that seems to keep its hold on you long after you’ve left. Beyond the grasp of tourism, one and a half hours from Cape Town, it’s an historic haven off the beaten wine lands tracks in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. A rare treasure, its honest authenticity has survived its modern day need to play on the world stage as a premiere wine making region.

Church Street is perhaps the most famous example of Tulbagh’s past – building after building it is a national monument of Cape Dutch architecture, painstakingly restored after a devastating earthquake destroyed the original structures back in the 1940’s. Perhaps it was only a latent aftershock from the “big one” that must have formed Tulbagh into such a dramatic valley so many millennia ago.

No longer private homes, these days the national monuments of Church Street have mostly been converted into an array of B&B’s, curios and cafés. With all the modern excitement it’s difficult to imagine the truth of the past, when Tulbagh’s first citizens bustled along this lane conducting the business of the day. But for the observative, a raw reminder of Tulbagh’s founding souls can be found at the Church itself, just at the edge of town. Walk through the gates and the respect of generations will envelop you as your eyes settle on one ancient tombstone after another. The names, the dates – the only thing these souls have left on God’s earth – now crumbling into the distance, about to join the bones of their patrons in surrender to the elements. Nothing lasts forever – and to me it feels like an honour to hold testament, if only for a moment.

Just a few minutes out of town, the road meanders into the countryside past picturesque wine estates. Drostdy-Hof Manor stands watch like old faithful, flanked by others who hold the valley’s humility steadfast whilst making an impression on the palettes of unsuspecting wine lovers everywhere: the fourth-generation Twee Jonge Gezellen Estate “The House of Krone”, Saronsberg Cellar, and the historic Oude Compagnies Post. It’s easy to get swept up in the romance of the place – and the chapel at Montpellier stands like a beacon to such notions, its small stature belying its position amongst the vines on a hillside of monumental beauty.

It seems to me that the people who visit Tulbagh have something in common with the people that live there – maybe we’re drawn by the call of the mountain range, the quiet that moves on the breeze, or even the past that seems to whisper from every rock, nook and cranny. Something draws us all there – something that makes the jagged mountain peaks that curve overhead in the shape of a horseshoe landscape feel like home’s embrace.

Lucky Charms & Sensational Bites: Port Elizabeth’s Narai Siam Thai Kitchen

2011-02-26T01:56:00.000-08:00

Located in an unassuming converted house on a quiet, out of the way street in Newton Park, Narai Siam Thai Kitchen’s exterior seems ho-hum, a striking contrast to the inside, which makes you feel like you’ve been carried away by a crowd of Thai nationals in an Asian version of Carnival. Every table, wall and even the ceiling is adorned with authentic Thai tapestries in hot pink, yellow, green and blue. Shimmering mirrors reflect light like little disco balls, making the space feel larger than life. The feeling is festive, casual, and definitely fun – perfect for groups in a celebratory mood.

This is the vision of Colin Beelders and his partner, a Thai national. Over the years they have painstakingly sourced each element of the décor in Thailand and travelled with them back to South Africa. Apparently the décor does much to inspire the guests and some, the owners say, are simply overwhelmed by the temptation to tinker with the glittering ornaments, even slipping them into their handbags alongside extra dinner mints. Colin explains, “Unfortunately things are sometimes stolen or broken,” he shrugs, “sometimes we get them back.”

Colin continues, “The restaurant’s name is inspired by a Thai king whose temple in Lopburi is most famous for its annual Festival of Monkeys.” The temple has become a tourist attraction since 2,000 monkeys decided to take up residence. These crafty monkeys have a habit of sneaking up on unsuspecting tourists and pick-pocketing small items like car keys or snacks before scampering off. I can’t help but make the correlation between the monkey-thieves at the temple in Thailand and patrons in Port Elizabeth who would pause between bites to strip the walls of their ornaments.

Determined to leave things in their place, my friend and I are looking forward to our lunch out on an otherwise average day. We make small talk with our host who brings us order-by-number menus. There is something to be said for these – somehow I always fool myself into believing I don’t need the extra help but invariably realize after several mangled attempts at Thai that ordering by number isn’t so bad after all.

We start with easy-to-pronounce Tom Yum Soup, a house specialty, and order a bottle of Noble Hill Sauvignon Blanc – a perfect companion to Thai food because of its lemony, crisp finish. The soup is warming and has just enough spice to balance the sweetness. For the entrée we decide to share two of the restaurant’s signature dishes, my favourite, #13 (that’s Kang Keow Wan Gai – sweet green curry)with chicken, and #42 (Pad Nam Phrik Phao – stir fried and roasted chilli paste) with beef. In both dishes, the vegetables are perfectly cooked – seared but still crisp fresh. The rich coconut of the green curry is complemented by mild spice and lifted by the zing of lemongrass – the combination is a gentle dance in my mouth. The chili dish by contrast is feisty and full of kick, richness and depth of flavour. As the restaurant starts to fill with aromas from the kitchen and the energy of other patrons the space is transformed into a mid-day’s party. Just a few bites in and we are loving the food and the vibe.

When the coast is clear we sneak away to have a peek at the infamous men’s loo – where the interior is guaranteed to bring a laugh, if not a blush as red as sweet chili sauce due to the many phallic statues adorning the space. Obscene and hilarious to us westerners, it turns out we are missing the point entirely. These figures are lucky charms, known as Palad Khik, and have been highly regarded in Thai society since the 8^th century AD for their powers to bring good luck, prosperity, protection against evil forces and last but not least – to increase one’s sex appeal. Quite the norm in Thailand, they are even worn as necklaces.

I don’t know about you, but I somehow doubt I could ever fall head over heels for a man wearing a giant phallic charm around his neck, but I suppose one never really knows until one is faced with the situation.

We return to the table giggling. We catch our breath and turn to high-five the table of ladies next to us – their turn is up. Still feeling flushed, we decide to cool down over Thai iced teas – brewed to perfection, they are sweet, authentically Thai and beautiful to look at – just like the restaurant, which seems to have made it to the end of lunch largely intact. Although I haven’t seen anyone slipping trinkets into their takeaway boxes it still feels like we’ve got up to a bit of mischief – sort of like those monkeys living in the famous temple in Lopburi. Something tells me King Narai would be proud.

HOURS: OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER, MON – SAT, 12H00 ‘TIL 23H00
LICENSED: YES; R35 CORKAGE FEE
AMBIANCE: CASUAL & FUN, LIKE THE FESTIVAL OF MONKEYS
AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R55
ADDRESS: 20 WORRAKER STREET (BETWEEN 2^ND & 3^RD AVENUES), NEWTON PARK, PORT ELIZABETH
TEL: 041 363 8126

Global Gourmet: The Restaurant at Clos Malverne

2011-02-19T00:30:00.000-08:00

A flair for contemporary classics and complex flavour combinations are just two of Nadia Louw Smith’s culinary talents, as Theresa Lozier discovered when she chatted to Clos Malverne’s executive chef over a sophisticated seasonal lunch.

Childhood memories – we all have them. Those moments that stay with us our whole lives, taking us back to the way we felt, to the sights, sounds, and smells that we had for that fraction of time. For some of us, like Nadia Louw Smith, a childhood experience can have the power to influence the course of our lives.

“I remember my family going to my grandmother’s home for Sunday lunch,” she explains. “The house was always filled with the smells of her freshly baked bread and traditional roast. Those were very happy times.” She continues, “My grandmother was my biggest influence and inspired me to follow my interest in food. Being in the kitchen never felt like work to me – it was always fun, creative – and I often helped my mother in the kitchen in the evenings. After a while, my dad used to tease her that my food was better!” She laughs gently, and the twinkle in her eye belies her humble demeanor.

Her father was right to take note of her early talent. Nadia’s career has spanned South Africa’s culinary landscape – from five-star luxury at Cape Town’s Mandela Rhodes Place Hotel & Spa, to the Cederberg’s world-renowned Bushmanskloof Wilderness Resort (hailed as the “Best Hotel for Food” by Condé Nast Traveler magazine), and the cosmopolitan flair of the Cinnamon Boutique Restaurant in Wilderness. In 2009 she traded the shores of the Garden Route for the rolling hills of the Devon Valley outside Stellenbosch, becoming the driving force behind the launch of The Restaurant @ Clos Malverne.

Nadia relfects, “I’ve been here since the beginning – since the launch of the restaurant. I wouldn’t have it any other way. I get to set the standards, train the staff and the menu is me – it’s my food. I love combining flavours and, since the wine adds such an important dimension to the dining experience, I really enjoy the added complexity.”

Located 40-min from Cape Town, Clos Malverne is an idyllic country getaway set among the vines. Its gorgeous spa is a highlight for those looking for some daytime pampering - combined with lunch, visitors can really get away from it all. Other drawcards include award-winning wine, a sophisticated yet approachable setting, the wraparound balcony with a view of the vines and unpretentious, global cuisine.

As executive chef, Nadia ensures the menu takes its cue from nature – most of the fresh greens come from the wine estate’s own organic vegetable and herb garden – and offerings change every few months to make the most of the seasons. As much as possible, ingredients are sourced locally and handcrafted onsite – like the Franschhoek salmon trout that Nadia cures herself. A cosmopolitan influence of flavours is evident on the menu but the common denominator is a feeling of down-to-earth accessibility. Nadia says, “There are so many cultures to be inspired by – even here in South Africa, our food reflects our diverse roots – we have Dutch, Afrikaans, English, Malaysian, Indonesian, and Indian influences – and it’s wonderful to enjoy these flavours as contemporary classics. Soon we’ll even be launching a series of five-course gourmet evenings where we’ll have a bit of fun celebrating these flavours with all the style of fine dining.”

The lunch menu is made up of three indulgent courses, incorporating complex flavours like dill, thyme, citrus, and star-aniseed. For starters, Nadia recommends the tempura prawns served with a homemade chili sauce – the crispy batter, sweet meat and hot spice are complemented by a cool mango salad and paired with the estate’s crisp Sauvignon Blanc. For mains we try Nadia’s personal favourite, the orange and star-aniseed marinated duck breast, served with roast vegetables and a sweet potato cake that is coated in bread crumbs and fried until crisp on the outside. The combination of textures and rich, deep flavours pair well with the estate’s slightly fruity shiraz. The signature grilled beef fillet, sourced from a local farm, comes topped with your choice of sauces – but if you ask me, the creamy brandy pepper sauce is a “must-try”. Pair it with the flagship Auret, a distinctive blend of cabernet, pinotage and merlot that delivers elegant structure and just enough berry. Whatever you do, save a little space for dessert – both the vanilla pod crème brûlée and the dark chocolate fondant are to die for – the latter oozes with 80% Belgian chocolate and makes your plate an absolute mess of utter delight.

The Details:

The Restaurant @ Clos Malverne Wine Estate is now also open for Sunday lunch
A series of five-course Gourmet Evenings kick-off on Friday, 25 Feb for R295 per person
For more information or to reserve your table phone 021 865 2022, visit www.closmalverne.co.za or email info@closmalverne.co.za

Revel in Romance & Rosé this Valentine’s at Simonsig’s Cuvée Restaurant

2011-02-06T10:03:00.000-08:00

It’s February in the Cape – summer’s happiest month – and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. You know the one – that day that’s steeped in nostalgia and fairy tales, rooted in loving proclamations, reckless abandon, confessions and promises, filled to the brim with sweet nothings and everything else in between. It’s a day of passion – passionate love for some and fear and loathing for others. Will you have an unforgettable one? Will you find that someone in time? Or do you think it’s just a lot of hoo-haw invented by the likes of Hallmark? No matter which side of the emotional fence you’re sitting on we can’t seem to get past this day without feeling something and to be honest, so far I’ve been feeling like a bit of a skeptic.

After all, Valentine’s falls on a Monday this year – the most mundane of all days in the week – and with a job full of travel and tired evenings it seems like a lot of effort just to say “I love you” to someone I see every day. So when my special someone suggested we make it our own day and celebrate a little early, I was surprised to hear myself instantly agree, taken over by the whims of my secret romantic side or perhaps shot through the heart by Cupid’s golden arrow.

And so it was that we found ourselves at Simonsig’s signature restaurant, Cuvée, for an afternoon of carefree conversation, fine dining, premium wine and celebration. Upon arrival we were treated to a tasting of the Méthod Cap Classique range – lifting our spirits like the bubbles in our glasses. I must have forgotten my inner skeptic back in the car since I forgot all about my initial reservations while wandering under the oaks in the garden.

Set under a vine-covered trellis, the Cape Dutch building created a romantic setting and the nearby fountain trickled a slow melody in the heat of summer’s embrace. It was a cool relief to come indoors and sit like VIP’s, enjoying the view of the mountains framed by floor-to-ceiling drapes in soft hues of beige, cream and sultry grey. The darkness of the wood floors and tables created a rich feeling and the sound of jazz vocals moved softly through the air, a faraway voice of crystallized emotion. A modern mix of kitsch and style, the décor included chandeliers formed by a medley of glassware and china, suspended from the rafters in the double volume space above us, and silver light fixtures gleaming from their view of a century’s old wine press.

In the spirit of the occasion we chose the Rosé-inspired menu, only available until the end of April, which celebrates the earthy, berry flavours of the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé. Our waitress, Wilma, treated us to a graceful balance of attention and privacy between courses. We started with a taste of tender-crumbed bread, bursting with sundried tomato, offset by butter cream. Next we indulged in ostrich carpaccio, presented with cherry compote, earthy green sprouts and tangy goat’s cheese, drizzled with a red wine glaze. The combination of sweet and sour, creamy and sharp danced together in our mouths. Our entrée was an experience in each bite – seared tuna, perfectly pink in the centre – sealed in a jacket of coarse pepper, complemented by star-aniseed roasted plums, anointed with a creamy lemon butter sauce and punctuated by bits of walnut that melted in happy glory. Dining on this food made us feel like royalty but we weren’t finished yet – our final en core was a palette-cleansing dessert of icy orange marmalade and macerated berries that left us feeling refreshed, light and completely spoilt.

After this experience my inner skeptic seems to have vanished without a trace, and with a few weeks left before the “official” Valentine’s Day I’m starting to rethink my feelings on the matter. Why not celebrate with your best friend on that one day of the year? Does it really matter how the tradition began so long as you believe it? And if there’s any way to take the ‘mundane’ out of Monday, a brush with Cupid and time at Cuvée certainly can. Looks like I’ve been shot through the heart after all.

It’s not too late - reserve your Valentine’s Evening at Simonsig’s signature restaurant, Cuvée – perfect for pampering or even a proposal under the stars. The 3-course dinner includes live jazz by The Limehouse Trio, a bottle of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé and a box of handmade chocolates. 19h00 on Monday, 14 February for R350 per person. Vegetarian options are available upon request. Choose between:

· Starter: Roasted Duck, Beetroot and Pomegranate Salad OR Venison Carpaccio served with Crisp Apple, Gooseberries and Mustard-Dill Sauce

· Entrée: Beef Fillet Medallions enriched with Roquefort Cheese, Walnuts and Wild Mushrooms OR Sesame-crusted Norwegian Salmon with Wilted Greens

· Dessert: Dark Chocolate Fondant with Cherry and Marzipan Marbled Ice-cream, and Cointreau-infused, Macerated Watermelon with Orange Zest and Watermelon Sorbet

THE DETAILS:

· AMBIANCE: Romantic luxury – it’s Valentine’s all year long

· LOCATION: Outside Stellenbosch, on the Kromme Rhee Road between the R44 & R304

· HOURS: Lunch Mon-Sun 11H00-15H00; Dinner Wed, Fri, Sat: 19H00-22H00

· EXTRA SPECIAL: Book a private occasion in the luxurious Van Niekerk Room

· RESERVATIONS: Phone 021 888 4932 or email cuvee@simonsig.co.za

Note: The Rosé-inspired menu is available for a limited time until the end of April. Available as a set two- or three –course menu for lunch or dinner, it includes a flute of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé. R160-R190 per person

Harvesting a Forty-year Family Legacy – Simonsig’s Kaapse Vonkel

2011-01-16T07:00:00.000-08:00

It’s summertime in the Cape winelands. The sun is shining. The afternoons are so heated the air seems to shimmer. The mountain tops above seem heavy, a distant deep purple and the leaves on the vines before me are glowing a luminescent green. Bunches of grapes hang from them like perfect, radiant spheres – and they are ripe for the picking.

This is the very start of harvest season, when these delicate globes take the next step of their journey from the vineyards to our glasses. A time of the year that conjures up romantic images like basket loads of grapes streaming out of the vineyards by day and by night, of grape stomping rituals and most importantly, of bountiful celebration. And this year, the Stellenbosch winery Simonsig has much to celebrate.

Home to Kaapse Vonkel, the acclaimed Méthod Cap Classique (MCC) bubbly, this harvest represents the 40^th anniversary since visionary winemaker Frans Malan introduced it to the South African market. It was the first bubbly in South Africa to be made using the traditional Champagne method, a bold move at the time. Under the careful attention of Mr. Malan’s sons, it also became one of the few MCC’s to use the same classic grape combination used in Champagne – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. In other words, it’s about as close as you can get to “real” Champagne without throwing a few hundred rand at an imported bottle.

And why not buy local when such at outstanding MCC is at our fingertips? The recipe for Kaapse Vonkel has paid off in the form of a long list of accolades like numerous 4-star rankings from the Platter’s Wine Guide, top position in the Wine Magazine Cap Classique Challenges, international recognition, and several Veritas awards.

Crisp and bisquity with a citrusy nose and yeasty flavour, Kaapse Vonkel pairs well with seafood like oysters, smoked salmon and sushi. It also pairs well with friends, good times and summertime weather, when you feel inspired to lift your glass in tribute to the accomplishments of the past, the joy of the present, and the possibility of the future. Cheers to Simonsig – may this year’s harvest bring even more sparkle to the Cape.

African Dreams & Wild Encounters - Exploring Chobe, the Okavango, and Glorious Victoria Falls

2011-01-03T07:50:00.000-08:00

It is Christmas Day, pre-dawn. Stars still twinkling, moon still waxing. I am exhausted awake, almost like I am dreaming – but a rush of anticipation is urging me on. While in other places doting parents are also up at this hour, playing Santa’s elves, I am preparing for something else altogether – and the last of my checklist is now in place. We are speeding along the road to the airport, rushing through the darkness, about to step into another dimension for a wild encounter with nature – the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls stand waiting. We jump through logistical hoops – boarding passes, luggage check, security clearance, seat belts buckled and finally, glide into take off. Once in the air my stomach lifts too and the landscape changes from coastal to farmland, then great expanses of green obscured by puffy thunderclouds casting long shadows on the ground below them.

As we descend into Zambia we get our first glimpse of Victoria Falls – a series of dramatic cracks in the earth, switchbacks from one hairpin turn to the next, the base of each one hidden in the shadow of its depth. Then finally the mother of them all – the place where the Zambezi launches itself droplet by droplet off the ledge of a 100-metre cliff to explode at the bottom and rise again as vapor as thick as rain, creating mosi-o-tunya – the “smoke that thunders”.

The plane continues its descent and the landscape is scrubby and speckled with trees that remind me of a Dr. Seuss book, like massive broccoli stalks – thin at the base, expanding up to a thick canopy. A graceful touchdown and we are here, in the place of Dr. Livingstone, of tales of historic exploration – the ones that sent shivers of excitement down the backs upstanding citizens across Europe’s urban landscape centuries ago – of malaria and dysentery, of poverty and potholes, of lions, elephants and the wild beauty that comes with unspoken danger.

Stepping out of the comfort of the plane the heat of the place is oppressive and the sweltering sun makes my backpack feel twice as heavy – but I am too excited to mind. This is the first part of a long day’s journey – from a taxi to a plane, to another plane, to a taxi, to walking, to a ferry, to another taxi… ‘til we finally arrive where we were staying our first night, a place in Botswana called Kasane.

It takes more than an hour to travel the distance to Kasane – we find a taxi. Along the way our driver, Nicholas, fills our ears with stories that can only come from the lips of Africa. His mother died when he was a baby – at the time, his father was known by Dutch nationals who had come to Zambia for charity. They gave the child his European name and offered to bring him back to Netherlands, to give him an education. Upon hearing the news, Nicholas’s granny took his father to court – and petitioned to keep the child in Zambia for fear he would not be educated but rather enslaved like so many generations before – although in a distant century. So it was that Nicholas stayed in his country, raised by his grandmother, to become a taxi driver. He told stories of celebration – of dancing until “O3” – 3AM, army-time – and watching out for the many mosquitoes that were jumping and dancing, that sometimes bite. The “mosquitoes” are prostitutes and some have AIDS – he told of seeing many people fall sick – his best friend, gone. We stop for cool drinks at a local place in the township. We are a spectacle to the locals and they stare unabashed. The mood is lively, music pulsing, a group of women are dancing in the dust – a naughty one looks our way, bends over and touches the ground, and swinging her hips provocatively – and laughs open-mouthed at our reaction. Another mosquito, Nicholas warns as we move off, they are all around.

We arrive at Kasane just before dark… it’s been a long day yet my sleep is restless, interrupted by wild dreams induced by anti-malaria tablets where I fend off mosquitoes with stingers like drill bits. I awake to sunrise and the song of laughing birds, sounds I’ve never heard before. My mind is moving faster than me and I can’t wait to hit the road. We collect our transport – a rented 4x4 Toyota Hilux – and at last, we leave for Chobe National Park following the banks of the river, stopping to wonder at zebra and giraffe, baboons, monkeys, various birds, lots of impala and elephant. The roads are mostly sandy with a few stretches of mud and we travel as far west into the park as we can and stay the night in the Linyanti Swamps.

Just before reaching camp we come across a lone elephant munching the trees. He observes us for some time before moving off into the distance. Hearts beating we enter the camp, beautiful and quiet, shaded by jackal berry trees. There are only 3 campsites, each with a view of the river. It feels very lush and green. Hippos are calling to one another from their places in the water, something like the sound of a low and rumbling muffler. We start setting up camp. Thunder is rolling in the distance. Before too long it starts a great downpour but we manage to assemble our tent before the worst of it and sit under cover until it passes. It isn’t too long, maybe 15 minutes, until we can start our campfire and cook supper, braaied chicken, potatoes and butternut. At dusk the true nature of the place reveals itself – sounds of frogs and crickets and the humming of mosquitoes. The hum turns to a buzz. We are in mosquito heaven and they are swarming everywhere. Our lanterns become a beacon to them and we resort to eating in the darkness to avoid becoming the feast ourselves.

This even though we have already slathered ourselves in deet and are wearing the long pants and long sleeves that are recommended. We keep the tent zipped as much as possible and when it’s time for sleep we jump inside quickly, lights off, and zip ourselves inside urgently. Lights on, we still find a few of them have infiltrated our tent and spend the next few minutes slapping and smashing until we think we’ve got them all. Backlit from the outside we surely must have looked strange. The morning is nearly as bad, probably because we don’t expect them to still hang around, but there they are – hovering in air – their stingers visibly drooping behind them ready to take their fill. We pack up and leave as soon as possible not even stopping for breakfast. I count six bites so far.

The next day we head into the Moremi Reserve, part of the Okavango Delta. The roads are not as kind on this day – the “roads” are really just paths stretching out into the wilderness, alternating between patches of loose sand up to your calves or clay-mud pools that drop to the height of your hips – their depths hidden from view. Mostly there are ‘escape routes’ skirting the worst spots but we have to cross something like a lake, as deep as the height of the tires, on a few occasions. I now understand why land rovers have snorkels. Luckily we made it through with the aid of low-gear 4-wheel drive, a couple of white knuckles and determined faces.

We pass open fields of long golden grass, gnarled trees, some snapped at 90-degree angles by passing elephants. We drive in the footsteps of fresh elephant tracks – giant circular marks single-file on the road. In one place we stop to watch two elephants near a small lake and a tree. We are surprised when the rest of the pack comes along – nearly 25 of them – stirring up the dust as they rush to the water’s edge. We watch until they pass out of site – the bush is so thick that even a herd of giant elephants can vanish between the trees. We're nearly to our destination - tonight we stay at Xakanaka Camp, surrounded by open fields and a few fallen trees, and a view of the marshy edges of the Okavango Delta beyond.

It’s nearly sunset and we make our way to the boat station, where some locals live in army tents and offer guided tours of the delta. They are pretty nonchalant – yes, sure, a tour – ok, it’s kind of late you know. I guess we’re a dime a dozen – more tourists in a place they see every day, perhaps subduing its wonder. We rent a motorized boat for an hour-long ride at sunset and sit on the roof top, our driver, named Punch, below. We pass a few luxury camps with chalets and restaurants on the water’s edge. They all look quite nice and sleepy, like holiday relaxation. The driver moves us slowly through the water and we watch the sun as it starts to set, reflecting on the water.

A few minutes in and the driver stops and idles… it’s long enough that I start to wonder why… and suddenly an angry male hippopotamus bursts like a torpedo from underwater, his giant mouth gaping, yellow teeth exposed, and there is no doubt that he’s coming after the boat! It seemed to happen in slow motion, an incredible interaction with wildness you could never imagine or recreate. The driver pounces on the gas and jerks us out there with such force I jolt backwards and grab onto the railing to stop myself from falling. As we reach safety Punch explains that hippos can outrun humans, even underwater, and this one is known to take issue with the passing boats, harassing them and even biting holes in the hull. Punch had stopped the boat because he wasn’t able to spot the hippo anywhere in the water, suspecting he might be lying in wait beneath the surface. After that the rest of the cruise is pretty relaxed, we stop off to see indigenous birds resting in the trees and watch the sunset as the reeds lining the delta turn a rich golden hue.

The next day we travel to Savuti Camp, our last night in Chobe before heading back to Kasane. The road is wilder, sandy in places and thick with mud in others. We pass through a meadow of green grass and dead trees, the road reaching interminably before us. The sky turns a moody blue and the clouds seem to converge. Lightening wakes up the sky and a low rolling thunder warns us of our future. The rain comes down, soaking the landscape and the colours emerge saturated and rich. We worry at the lightning bolts all around us, the thunder is roaring and rain streams down. The worst doesn’t last long and actually helps pack the sandy tracks for an easier journey. Eventually the lighting passes and the wild storm that seemed inevitable moves off in another direction – all is calm and the sun begins to set.

We arrive at Savuti, the largest of the camping areas we've stayed in so far, with about 12 sites set in a circle around the ablutions block. The ablutions feel more like a fortress out of Jurassic Park, set in the center of a cement security wall. The wall is built to the standards of a dam, secured by earth on the inside, and access is via a heavy iron gate set with a spring to ensure its closure. We learn this has been built to protect the showers from the elephants who repeatedly destroyed them by ripping the roof off and knocking the walls down during dry seasons to get to the taps inside. Imagine the elephants’ frustration at having to migrate hundreds of kilometers due to thirst, only to arrive and witness comfortable campers showering away. No wonder the elephants were driven to extreme measures.

Darkness falls and an eerie feeling creeps in. From time to time we shine our flashlights around, checking for any orange eyes (predator eyes) that might be watching in the distance. Luckily there were no predators but there were tens of little eyes shining back at us – small animals like mongoose – we were surrounded. We try to settle in next to the fire and now hear a loud noise like crackling branches. A giant black shape forms nearby – the silhouette is barely discernible yet I feel an unmistakable presence. We shine a torch and there it is – a single giant eye is looking back at us – then the other – the eyes of a bull elephant. It is incredible to sit here with this giant so nearby, and I dare not move or make a noise for fear of startling the thing. He stops at the tree above our heads and nibbles a few leaves then circles, tries out some of the grass a few yards away and finally wanders off into the darkness.

In the morning we wake to the sounds of birds I’d never seen before full of beautiful colours. Hyena tracks are on the ground through our site but luckily we had packed all of our food away, inside the truck, for safety. We have a full day of driving to get back to Kasane but take time for an early morning game drive in the nearby surrounds – we see a few Elephant families in groups of eight or more. We seem to happen upon their morning routine as they each approach a lake to drink and bathe before moving off to spread dirt on themselves with their trunks (protecting their skin and keeping themselves cool) and eat the foliage. One trumpets in our direction and makes as if he’s going to charge – but he is a juvenile and only testing the waters.

In Kasane we plan to take a 3-hour river cruise. We get there just in time and the cruise takes us past more hippos, buck and a few crocodiles. In the dryer season you can see all kinds of animals on the river banks including elephants, giraffe and zebra. The next morning we set off for Livingstone and the Victoria Falls – a taxi to a ferry to a taxi and then the backpackers where we will stay the night.

We consider taking the public bus but it is going on to Lusaka and the crowds of people are everywhere trying to get on – at one stage they open the bus for boarding and the crowd swells into a massive bottleneck as they all try at once to squeeze through the doors, heaving and arguing with one another. The luggage surrounding the bus could have filled it alone and I imagine them trying to tie it all onto the roof top later with all manner of rope. Whenever the breeze graces us the smell of Africa tickles our noses with electrifying audacity and even my nose hair seems to curl in disdain. Between all of the squeezing and shoving the ticket guy advises us the taxi is a better option since the bus seems oversold and we manage to find one soon after.

Once in Livingstone we have lunch and then my first bout of Zambezi tummy – luckily it doesn’t last long – and then off to Victoria Falls. The noise is all encompassing. The vapor rises and fills the air with a mist as thick as rain in some places. We take the afternoon to explore the area along the various walks and viewpoints, watching the river rafters below navigate the white water. Along the top people are actually wading through the water, just before the falls, some even lying down on exposed rocks to see the falls stream past them and land below. Occasionally we hear a frenzied scream, not from the waders losing their footing but from the bungee jumpers above. This is slightly disconcerting above the roar of the water.

We hike down to the bottom of the falls along a trail to the edge of the “Boiling Pot” the place where the rough water passes through the canyon walls, where the river resumes its course. Trekking down is a near vertical descent into a tropical zone of tall palm trees, vines and greenery, the sound of the falls is graced by calling birds and gurgling streams. Once at the water’s edge it is amazing to look back up at the wonder of the falls that we’ve seen from all the other angles and have final perspective. Taking a last look we turn to go and just then the sun peaks through the afternoon clouds and the entire view warms in an array of golden light.

Victoria Falls is an incredible end to the trip, one of the most beautiful and dramatic things I’ve seen, and we head back to our lodge to celebrate the journey with a champagne toast. It is our last night in Zambia – and in the morning we make the journey home – a taxi, a delay, two planes, a taxi and long drive later we arrive on our doorstep at the stroke of midnight - just in time to cheer the New Year. I open the door and take a deep breath of home – the scent of the milkwood trees and the sea float in the air around me. I reflect that just this morning I was in hot dusty Zambia and how strange it is to be home again – suddenly, like maybe it was all just a dream.

Tasting the Good Life at Waterkloof Wine Estate

2010-12-15T06:10:00.000-08:00

On the scale of romantic daydreams, few wine estates let your expectations soar as high as Waterkloof does. Before you even arrive you have visions that maybe, just for one day, you can feel like a millionaire, meandering the in the vineyard, taking in the view, nibbling on artisanal cheese and sampling world-class wine. “This is the good life,” you might say to trusty Jeeves while gazing out the window, “by golly, this is the good life indeed.”

The windows at Waterkloof are no ordinary windows – no, no – they are 10-meter tall walls of green glass set into a concrete frame that form a work of modern architecture set proudly on the slopes of the Schapenberg. Vineyards surround the building, rising 300 dramatic meters above sea level, against the backdrop of the Hottentots-Holland and Helderberg Mountains beyond. From inside, the open plan space feels decadent – and with a view like this you can’t help but stand a little taller. A section of the dining area peaks out farther from the building – seeming to float in midair – greedily taking an extra helping of the view. The tasting area, defined by leather loungers, is centrally placed. The gravitational cellar, set behind another pane of glass, gives you the feeling you’re observing a rare species in very a glamorous aquarium focused on the wonders of another kind of liquid altogether.

I had always wanted to visit Waterkloof so when the opportunity to enjoy a tasting and Ploughman’s lunch with my dearest presented itself, I jumped for it. Better yet – we were also going to explore the vineyards on a two-hour meander by horseback – part of a special seasonal package. The timing couldn’t have been better – in the last few weeks before the silly season I was feeling like a getaway more than ever.

At last, the day came. We arrived at Orion Stables & Riding Academy where we would begin our ride, a loop from the stables to Waterkloof and back again. We met our guide, Monique, who introduced us to our horses – or “mounts,” as they say. The wind was blowing and whipped my hair wildly – I felt like I was caught in the draft of a giant outdoor hair dryer – and this was not helping my mood.

I was feeling a little anxious.

You see, I had only done this once before. And she was standing right in front of me – looking down at me, towering over me. She was so much bigger than I thought. She stared at me with those dark, soft eyes, and waited for me to make the first move. Her name is Monami, a former world-class show jumper now enjoying her retirement in the Cape wine lands – something many humans dream of but never attain. Our guide assured me she’s a gentle thing – and she was, sweet as pie. We met and I took my place in the saddle. While we waited for the others I talked with her, “Nice girl,” I said, “Beautiful, girl. My, just look at the view, it’s the Cape Floral Kingdom before us.” We began our journey and carried on talking in this way, or at least I carried on talking in this way, as we went.

The vines were shining in the sun, glowing shades of green and yellow. My mind wandered. I felt like I was in a scene from the pioneer days – wafts of the past flickered across the landscape. These fields, set up high with a perfect few of False Bay, were once used more than 300-years ago as a lookout by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, once an unscrupulous Governor of the Cape who sent his men to be the first to spot the trading ships entering the bay. The ships would be in need of fresh supplies and whoever got there first would make the sale. For competing Cape farmers, it was a race but van der Stel’s view gave him an unfair advantage. By the time the rest of the farmers arrived at the beach, no doubt huffing, puffing and sweating from hustling their ox cars laden with goods, he would already be closing shop, counting the money he’d already made and looking forward to a breezy ride home.

I woke from my daydream and I was back in the moment, the vineyards all around. It was beautiful spending time among the vines and it was quiet – so very quiet. I felt only the rhythm of our gentle pace, the sun on my skin and the feeling of nature in my spirit. Off in the distance the mountains seemed like an impenetrable wall, rising steeply, and the hills in the distance seem to gradually plunge to kneel at the base of the valley.

I could see Waterkloof then, not too far away. The structure of the building was a contrast to the land – hard edges and materials, and it shone in the morning light. We were greeted by Christiaan, the farm manager, who helped us show our horses to their resting place for some fresh water and hay snacks.

We were shown to the tasting area and joined by Sonja – a bubbly and vibrant lady who guided us through the tasting menu with friendly enthusiasm and technical detail. The wines were in the European-style – not overly fruity. We made our way through the Sauvignon Blancs – trying to decide which one was our favourite – a toss-up between the ever so slightly oaked Circumstance, still tight with mineral tones, and the Waterkloof, crisp and flinty, normally only available in the restaurant. The cheese platter arrived and we sampled the wines over again – pairing this one with that one – still trying to pick a favourite while indulgence melted in our mouths. After the whites we tried the Circumstance Cape Coral Mourvedre, a dry rosé, playfully pink – a good choice for a Saturday’s lunch. New globe glasses were presented as we moved into the reds. My favorites were the Waterkloof Cabernet Sauvignon, a big wine – smooth, dark and juicy – and the Waterkloof Shiraz, a good balance of peppery spice and smooth berry notes –a special occasion wine, I think.

Christiaan was at the door, ready to take us back to our horses for the return leg of our journey. We climbed the hill and saddled up. Before turning to go I patted my mount, Monami for one of the last times, sighed at the beauty of the experience and picked up our conversation where I left off. “Yes,” I said, gazing at the landscape, “This is the good life. By golly, this is the good life indeed.”

The Details:

· Located outside Somerset West on the M9 Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road

· The horse riding experience costs R420 per person, including wine and a meat and cheese platter; to book contact Orion Stables & Riding Academy at 021 8581938

· To reserve your table at Waterkloof Restaurant contact 021 858 1491 or email: restaurant@waterkloofwines.co.za.

· For more information visit www.waterkloofwines.co.za or call 021 858 1292

Timeless Welcome at the Knorhoek Country Guesthouse

2010-12-12T02:47:00.000-08:00

It’s a perfect summer’s Sunday – the air is fresh and the morning sunlight tickles the landscape making everything feel warm and golden. Jagged peaks punctuate the sky, rising dramatically above us. Tidy farms dot the rolling hills in the distance, the crops laid out to form shapes of varying colour on the land. Neat vines zip past my window, row after row. The leaves form a blur of happy warmth, waving ‘hello’ as we bounce past farther into the wine lands with a growing sense of wonder at this peaceful place.

Getting closer to our destination the road narrows and a white-washed fence appears on either side, ushering us on. Flowers decorate the view in bursts of red, orange, purple and white. A canopy of tall oaks offers shady comfort for our arrival and I feel completely at home. This is nature’s reception to the van Niekerk’s fifth generation family farm in Stellenbosch, now a boutique wine estate, where we’re looking forward to a weekend retreat.

I step out of the car to survey the scene, reflecting on the name of the place, “Knorhoek.” Roughly translated, it means the place where the wild cats growl. Things sure were different for the first members of the van Niekerk family who travelled here – unloading the ox cart after an exhausting journey and being greeted by the sounds of ferocious mountain lions would be a bit unnerving, to say the least. I’m shaken out of my daydream by a sound, too – not a lion but the family dog, a white bull terrier named Merlot who greets me panting, his tail wagging in happy excitement. Lucky for me he’s just a friendly little clown and we quickly become friends.

We go inside and meet Samantha who is expecting us and greets us warmly. We put our names down in the oversized guest book, next to those of previous guests from all over the world. The reception area is placed in an open plan space with the feeling of a family home and connects to the breakfast room and kitchen on either side. It also includes an informal dining room, a bookshelf of travel literature in various languages, plus a lounge, complete with overstuffed couches, a fireplace and a television. Samantha encourages us to enjoy the space, even after hours, and gives us our own key. She shows us the honour bar, too – fully stocked with estate wine, and chilled beer and water. I love the simplicity and openness here, like I’m staying with family friends.

We walk with Samantha to our room just next door – and see that it has its own private entrance and stoep. Inside the antique cupboard, desk and wood-panelled ceiling create a homey feeling. Freshly picked flowers decorate the room – at the foot of the bed on our neatly folded towels, on the bedside tables and in the immaculate bathroom – a nice touch. The bed is inviting, with its plush pillows and crisp white linen, but we resist the temptation to nap for a vineyard walk instead.

We meander along the grounds, past the manor house and gardens. A peacock calls in the distance, ducks fly overhead, and the estate’s small stream babbles quietly. After just a few minutes we’re following the line of the vines down a gently sloping path. Now I hear a familiar sound – it’s Merlot – as happy as before. He canters up ahead, pretending not to pay too much attention to us even though his left ear is perked in our direction the whole time. The path rounds a corner and there they are – the majestic Simonsberg Mountains dominating the view, a giant wall of purple rising up, the kind you see in magazines and that make you want to go places. We stand still in the quiet and watch for a while.

Feeling inspired, we continue back through the vineyard and to the tasting room where we sit outside on the patio enjoying the view from under our sun-shade umbrella. We chat with our hosts and another guest, a French Canadian visiting from Montreal who entertains us with stories of travel to the wine lands of France and Italy. We enjoy a cheese platter while taking our time, sampling the range of boutique wines – white, sparkling and special reds – which have been recognized with multiple awards from Veritas, the Michelangelo International Wine Awards, and many more not to mention glowing reviews from the John Platter Guide. It’s no surprise that I have difficulty choosing my favourite one – a toss-up between the Pinotage (juicy with hints of ripe banana), the Cabernet Sauvignon (smooth, berry red, a hint of spice and oak) and the flagship, the Pantere (spicy, complex – a big wine that would go well with a special dinner). Luckily for me I don’t have to choose – I purchase one of each as lovely souvenirs.

After the tasting we wander towards the estate restaurant, just across the way. Aptly named “Towerbosch,” it is set under the cover of the trees, bordering a large garden. Merlot is still with us, going off this way and that, investigating sounds in the bush, inspecting rock piles or digging holes in the ground. I hear an owl hoot in the distance – and then, there she is, swooping high to low then up again, landing on the height of a young tree. She is a Cape Eagle Owl and we feel her presence as she watches us. I creep closer for a better look, slowly, slowly – until she turns and faces me square. She won’t allow me any closer. I stand – ever so still. Then, from the corner of my eye I see another owl. And then another. Perhaps the rest of her family has arrived. The moment feels important and special and the sound of their calls envelopes us.

We return to our little stoep and open a bottle of the Knorhoek Cabernet Sauvignon – my favourite at the moment – and it’s a real treat to sit and enjoy it in the place where it was crafted. We sit back and relax, sipping slowly, listening to dusk’s lullaby – crickets with their night song, the trees still rustling overhead, the muffled noise of peacocks and in the distance, the hooting of the owls. After a while we retire to the comfort of the lounge where we make ourselves at home to enjoy the last bits of our cheese platter – a few tastes of the day’s pleasure left. Time passes into evening as we talk about everything and nothing in particular. After a while the comfort of the bed is calling again. This time we retire, sinking into its fluffy layers. It’s been a good day, I think – I feel content, inspired and free. Perhaps this is the feeling the first members of the van Niekerk family had when they came here for the first time, too – perhaps this is the reason they decided to found Knorhoek and the reason why each generation has made the same decision to stay here and call this “home.” Perhaps things weren’t so different in those days after all – except for maybe the lions.

THE DETAILS

8 rooms, en-suite (bath or shower) including a family and honeymoon suite, and two luxury self-catering cottages with braai facilities
The rates range from R420 per person per night for a room to R2 000 per night at one of the luxury self-catering cottages for four people sharing. All guest house rates include breakfast. Cosy lounge with fireplace and a dining room to use at leisure
Lunches at Towerbosch Wed-Fri during summer and at weekends year-round (booking essential); Dinner Mon-Fri by prior arrangement
Activities on the estate: Wine tasting, vineyard walks; tennis, landscaped rock pool (children welcome); fly-fishing; bird watching; Near the estate: Golf (ten of the top the Western Cape’s top courses within 30-minutes of travel), horse riding, hiking trails
Located 10 minutes from Stellenbosch, 40 minutes from Cape Town International Airport, and 50 minutes from the V & A Waterfront
For reservations, phone: (+27)21 865 2114/5; email: guesthouse@knorhoek.co.za; or visit: www.knorhoek.co.za

Closer to Home: Knorhoek’s Towerbosch Earth Kitchen

2010-12-09T00:12:00.000-08:00

These days the wine lands represent ideas of the good life - sophistication, culture, class - and people travel to far flung destinations around the globe just for a taste. Yet here in South Africa we have the best of these things plus the pioneering foundation of our history to draw inspiration from. Under its romantic sheen the heart of our wine country is formed by the simplistic honesty of farming, good old fashioned values and the persevering strength of family.

A few generational farms still exist – special places like the Knorhoek Wine Estate in Stellenbosch – and today I’ve been invited to lunch. I’ve heard it feels like home – that it’s a place with the power to revive old memories, to make them feel new again, especially the mundane ones that multiply in importance as the years go by, like afternoons with family over a good home cooked meal, or when I was a girl playing in the garden for hours on end. I live far away from my family now and those times hold a special place in my heart, so I found the prospect of revisiting them intriguing.

From the outside the building looks like a fairy hut – inviting and warm, low to the ground – and it stretches along the length of the pool. Inside it feels light and airy with a vaulted ceiling and exposed wooden beams, from which a contemporary artwork is suspended for dramatic effect. Like a new age chandelier it’s a bird’s nest of tangled twigs and branches, foraged from the grounds of the estate before being white-washed and woven in place. Punctuating this organic bramble are glowing bouquets of glass bulbs and patches of antique cutlery – floating butter knives and hovering spoons, along with tea cups and saucers in odd bins of china, porcelain and ceramics – caught in mid-air. The dining area is flanked by a lounge filled with books, travelogues and at least a decade’s worth of neatly packed National Geographic magazines, like big blocks of wonder waiting to be unlocked. Yellow curtains dance on the breeze, serenaded by the contemporary Afrikaans music that wanders from the kitchen to the dining area.

Our host, Jean Pierre, invites us to settle in and shares the Asado menu with us, a traditional Sunday roast-up with all the trimmings. We order a bottle of the Knorhoek Cabernet Sauvignon – rated four-stars by the John Platter Guide and a great partner for the lamb to come. We toast and savour our first sips - juicy, berry rich, classically oaked. Dish by dish, lunch is introduced. We start with empanadas – a pocket stuffed with lamb encased in a light shell. Shortly afterwards we’re treated to fresh bread – the crust is crisp and the crumb is soft, still warm from the oven – accompanied by homemade apricot jam – I think the best I’ve ever had. The next course is a generous bowl of smorsnoek and curried onions – a lovely combination of sweet, sour and spicy.

Before the main course arrives we take some time to meander outside on the lawn and lounge in the shade of the gazebo. We chat with a large family nearby, enjoying the day at picnic tables under the oaks. Their children romp freely just out of earshot but still within sight – climbing over the jungle gym, holding court on the stage (available for formal functions) and rearranging the deck chairs between splashes in the pool. As I watch them I can’t help but feel the twinkle in my eyes.

Back at the table the curtain begins to rise on the main event. Like performers in a gastronomic ballet the wait staff deliver choreographed indulgence to the table – broccoli and cauliflower gratin, marmalade sweet potatoes, crispy roast potato wedges, a salad just picked from the garden and finally, our new centrepiece, a platter of perfectly pink sirloin and shoulder of lamb so tender it seems to throw itself onto my fork with the slightest bit of nudging – just like my dad’s. Dessert is a toffee apple pudding – sweetly dense and gooey, almost like my grandma’s famous upside-down-cake. With each bite I feel a small helping of comfort, and maybe – just maybe – a little closer to home.

LUNCH: WED-SUN FROM 12H00 TIL 3H00 (BOOKING ESSENTIAL)
DINNER: ON REQUEST, FOR A MINIMUM OF 15 GUESTS
LICENSED: YES
AMBIANCE: CLOSER TO HOME
AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R130 FOR TWO COURSES OR R160 FOR THREE COURSES; ASADO LUNCH, R165
ADDRESS: AT THE END OF KNORHOEK ROAD, OFF THE R44, STELLENBOSCH
TEL: 021 865 2958
EMAIL: TOWERBOSCH@KNORHOEK.CO.ZA

Seeking Chenin’s Serious Side

2010-11-10T09:02:00.000-08:00

South Africa plants more Chenin Blanc than any other grape variety and production levels here are the highest in the world, yet she carries the stigma of unsophisticated bulk wine and many consumers overlook her true potential as an elegant gem. But Chenin Blanc’s struggle for recognition isn’t over yet and her unsung story is complete with champions like Ken Forrester set on changing the odds.

The humble Chenin Blanc grape is a curious character. Something like the quiet girl at the party, she has all the grace and sophistication one could want for – yet she fades into the background next to the glitz and glamour of her outspoken cousins Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. A walk into an average wine shop confirms her small pool of friends – bottle after bottle, other wines greet you at the door and only if you make it past their bells and whistles, seeming to catcall to you from the shelves as you walk by, will you find poor little Chenin tucked away in some small corner – sometimes overlooked and mostly underappreciated.

There is of course a reason for this ugly-duckling status – until a few decades ago Chenin was used to produce the bottom-of-the-barrel for the down-and-nearly-outs of society. Her history in South Africa started out innocently enough – Chenin was among the very first vine clippings planted by Jan van Riebeeck in 1655 – but the winemakers of the day had a fairly poor knowledge of viticulture, allowing the vines to grow like weeds and produce generous harvests of grapes that had little similarity to the complex quality and concentrated characteristics of Chenin when yields are low. Adding insult to injury, basic winemaking materials like oak barrels and fining were not readily available in the Cape, meaning that Chenin Blanc wine was what today we call plonk – it might have even made that sound upon landing in one’s glass – but let’s leave that topic for another time. It was so unpleasant that the officers of the Dutch East India Company wouldn’t dare touch it and only the working classes would.

But in 1806 a funny thing happened – the British occupied the Cape. I say this was funny not in the hilarious sense, but in the ironic sense. At war with France, the English Empire was desperately cut-off from the trade of French wine and to substitute they began exporting Cape wine to the world. The demand was so great that Cape wine production increased by ten-fold and the British were soon pumping millions of litres of plonk to their unsuspecting kinsmen everywhere. This surely must have hastened efforts to kiss and make up with France. When a treaty was finally signed in the 1860’s the bottom fell out. Alas, the party was over and like a discarded mistress the Cape wine industry was left holding the bag.

Then a pivotal question presented itself – just what to do with all that wine? Eventually a decision was taken to distil it into brandy - a process that yields one litre of brandy for every five litres of wine. In a way Chenin Blanc’s versatility rescued the industry from bankruptcy but this didn’t do much for her reputation since the quality of brandy, known as “witblitz” or “firewater”, was even worse than plonk wine. After this Chenin’s fate was pretty much sealed and until a few years ago no one would give her a second look let alone believe in her potential for elegance.

But did you know that a South African Chenin Blanc, properly made today, rivals the finest examples in the world, even those from Loire Valley, France where the grape originated? And just like any good underdog story Chenin Blanc has her champions – her knights in shining armour – who fight to change her reputation from one of ill repute to one of true stature. People like Ken Forrester discovered her potential before most in the industry, and even started the Chenin Blanc Association as a way to both elevate quality and change perceptions.

Discovering “diamonds in the rough” is something of a pastime for Mr. Forrester. When he decided to move from Johannesburg to Stellenbosch he found a new home for his young family – not just any home, he bought a derelict structure through public auction that had been standing vacant for years. There was no roof, no electricity, and evidence of vandalism was all over the place - sounds like a real charmer to me. But what do I know? As it turns out, his instincts were spot on – this historic Cape Dutch homestead was built in 1694, part of a farm originally granted in 1689 and today this manor home has been restored to its original glory. Besides his passion for Chenin Blanc, Mr. Forrester considers Pinotage to be another unsung story and is intent on revealing its true potential as a wine with structure, one that can even be confused with classic Burgundy, if it is kept in the barrel and aged in the cellar longer before its release. He makes a case for a change in industry standards to better inform the consumer about the care that goes into developing a wine, to encourage both craftsmanship on the part of the industry, and informed appreciation by consumers. With vision like this it’s not hard to imagine his passion for Chenin Blanc paying off – and in fact, it is already starting.

Ken Forrester wines have been recognized globally and served at gala events, including Nelson Mandela’s 85^th birthday celebration. The democratic offering comes in three tiers – a value, estate, and premium range – so there is something for every occasion and every wallet. No matter which Chenin Blanc you choose, according to Wine Spectator the entire offering ranks upwards of 86-points– a nod that they are truly outstanding varietals. Best of all the 2009 Forrester Meinert Chenin (FMC) earned a 92-point rating – on par with some of the best that France can offer, albeit at a decidedly more welcoming price point.

With such a successful track record perhaps Ken Forrester has struck onto something significant – in a highly competitive global market why try to compete with the Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays of the world when they’re already surrounding us with their fame, calling to us from every aisle shouting “4-stars” this and “double-gold” that. At the end of the party, aren’t they just more of the same, like so many wilted flowers? When Chenin Blanc is so well suited to the South African climate and has the potential as a niche offering worldwide, why not set our own standard? Perhaps Chenin Blanc is our lady in waiting after all. Funny thing is, she’s been here all along. Funny not in the hilarious sense, but in the ironic sense. If only we would notice.

Port Elizabeth’s Unexpected Thai Treasures

2010-10-26T04:59:00.000-07:00

Port Elizabeth is known for its sandy beaches, flip-flop vibe, and most widely for its place on the map as the Garden Route’s gateway – but it’s also the unlikely home to two Thai food gems that make a visit a veritable treasure hunt. Theresa Lozier uncovers some of its hidden bounty.

In Thailand, food is an intrinsic part of culture – so much so that the traditional Thai greeting is not “hello” or “how are you?” – it is, “Have you eaten yet?” The preparation and presentation of food, and even the way it is shared and enjoyed, is linked to social norms and fundamental beliefs that help form Thailand’s social fabric. Thai people believe that dishes are meant to be shared, that it’s bad luck to eat alone, that wasting food angers the God of Rice and can even result in famine, and that beautiful presentation pleases the traditional monarch, the King of Siam, to no end. Even the Royal Thai Embassy’s web site has an official listing of authentic Thai restaurants, endorsing them as “a way to experience Thailand while in South Africa”. Not surprisingly, the list of these establishments runs long in foodie capitals like Cape Town and Johannesburg, but includes only two in the whole Eastern Cape – both of them in Port Elizabeth.

When it comes to food, it’s hard to imagine humble Port Elizabeth competing with the likes of Cape Town and Johannesburg, each with hoards of resident celebrity chefs competing on an international level. Be that as it may, this laid-back beach town has something its big sister and brother strive to recreate – a no frills authenticity and an honest, soulful nature that can’t help but make everyone feel at home. So perhaps it is fitting then that Port Elizabeth should host two of South Africa’s most authentic Thai restaurants, both intent on making their guests feel welcome by sharing the community spirit of their culture in their own unique ways.

Natti’s Thai Kitchen – An evening with friends

It’s a balmy summer’s evening and a slight breeze in the air brings welcome relief to the day. We’re arriving at a restored Victorian house in Port Elizabeth’s historic quarter, now home to Natti’s Thai Kitchen, an institution among locals. We approach the door under the twinkling fairy lights – step by step our noses are tickled by the aromas of our dinner to come. Mark, the owner, greets us at the door barefoot, his hair wavy and his smile as warm as the kitchen. It’s our first time meeting but we chat like we’re friends already.

The walls of the restaurant are painted in hues of yellow and the fiery red drapes glow in the soft candlelight. As my eyes adjust Mark leads us past a giant chalkboard menu, a painting of Buddha, and an antique fireplace. We walk over the creaking wooden floors and out onto the patio where we have a view of the flowers and herbs in his private garden. The scene is complete with a fishpond and an inviting swinging lounger – I imagine myself relaxing there sometime after our meal.

While we are being seated we chat about the Thai flavours we love – spicy and savoury, coriander, seafood and green curry, creamy coconut. It feels like more of a conversation than an order and with that, Mark disappears into the kitchen promising to return with something we will enjoy. A short while later he presents us with a mixed platter of spicy satay, fresh spring rolls and calamari served with Thai dips like Nam Prik Kapi (chili) and Nam Jim Kai (sweet), everything homemade by Natti herself, Mark’s wife, a Thai national. For our main course we enjoy the fish curry, full of satisfying seafood and flavours that dance in my mouth. I savour and cheer with each bite. We finish with the tempura banana and ice cream – crunchy and creamy, warm and cold, sweet and salty – the perfect finish to a lovely evening. Time to find that swinging lounger.

HOURS: OPEN FOR DINNER, TUES – SAT, FROM 18H30 ‘TIL LATE
LICENSED: NO, BRING YOUR OWN DRINKS; NO CORKAGE FEE
AMBIANCE: LIKE YOU’RE WITH FRIENDS
AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R70
ADDRESS: 5 PARK LANE, CENTRAL, PORT ELIZABETH
TEL: 041 373 2763

Narai Siam Thai Kitchen – A celebration of colour

Entering the doors of Narai Siam Thai Kitchen, on a quiet out of the way street in an unassuming converted house, is like being simultaneously smacked by an array of bright colours and carried away to an Asian version of Carnival. Every table, wall and even the ceiling is adorned in authentic Thai tapestries in hot pink, yellow, green and blue. Shimmering mirrors reflect the light like little disco balls, making this tiny space feel larger than life. The feeling is festive yet casual, perfect for groups in a celebratory mood while window nook seating offers a semi-private space for smaller parties.

My friend and I are looking forward to a lunch out, a celebration of nothing and everything in particular. We make jovial small talk with our host who brings us our order-by-number menus. We start with a classic, an order of crispy spring rolls, and dipping sauce, and order a bottle of Noble Hill Sauvignon Blanc –perfect with just about any food with its lemony, crisp finish.

Our host returns promptly with the starter and wine and takes the rest of our order. I go for my favourite, #30 Penang Curry with Chicken, and my friend has #57, the Pad Thai. Just a few bites in and we are loving the food, the vibe and our funny host. The restaurant starts to fill with the voices of other patrons and all of them seem just a jovial as the surroundings – it feels like we’ve happened upon a mid-day’s party. When the coast is clear we take turns sneaking away to have a peek at the infamous men’s loo – where the décor is guaranteed to bring a laugh, if not a blush as red as the sweet chili sauce! We cool down over Thai iced teas – brewed to perfection, they are satisfyingly sweet, authentically Thai and beautiful to look at – like the entire restaurant experience distilled into one glass.

HOURS: OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER, MON – SAT, 12H00 ‘TIL 23H00
LICENSED: YES; R35 CORKAGE FEE
AMBIANCE: CASUAL & FESTIVE, LIKE A THAI CARNIVAL
AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R55
ADDRESS: 20 WORRAKER STREET (BETWEEN 2^ND & 3^RD AVENUES), NEWTON PARK, PORT ELIZABETH
TEL: 041 363 8126

Glitzy, Girly Glamour at the House of J.C. Le Roux

2010-10-18T06:47:00.000-07:00

I love champagne, cap classique, cava, prosecco, spumante, sekt and sparkling – we have different names for it in regions all over the world, but however you say it, I love bubbly. I love the ritual of opening the bottle – of peeling away the foil seal, like golden wrapping paper, of gently turning the wire safety, finally revealing the cork. I love that quiet moment of anticipation before turning the cork until it explodes into my hand, and the vapour that whispers out of the bottle before a delicate pour into an elegant champagne flute, and that special “cling”. I especially love the guilty pleasure of opening a bottle just for me – champagne-savers, those ingenious little bottle sealer contraptions that let you enjoy your bubbles on more days than one, are a wonderful invention.

Perhaps the champagne-saver is a symbol of the growing popularity of bubblies everywhere. No longer reserved for uber-special occasions like anniversaries or proposals, these days I find myself enjoying it with friends more often – perhaps because it’s Friday, or because we feel like a bit of girly exuberance. And why not? There are many wineries producing quality options at a price point that makes celebrating for no particular reason completely accessible. In a way, these producers are democratizing the idea of bubbly – bringing the attributes that we associate with this drink, like luxury, exclusivity and sophistication – to ladies of today at a price they can palette while lunching on sushi and looking at the world through rose-coloured designer sunglasses.

The House of J. C. le Roux, part of a historic farm established by French Huguenot Jean le Roux in the 18^th century, is one of the wineries changing the marketplace in South Africa today. Exclusively dedicated to the production of bubbly, including the award-winning Pongracz label, J.C. le Roux offers a sparkling and Cap Classique range that is priced to suit just about any occasion. Placed on one of Devon Valley’s rolling hills, you’ll find it at the end of an ambling road that takes you through the countryside past dams, vines, and under the shade of sprawling trees. It feels a world away and is certainly worth a special trip. Most importantly, don’t forget your gaggle of girlfriends. While men certainly can (and should) enjoy the experience, this is a wine tasting that has been especially designed with ladies in mind.

As testament to this, as my friends and I were arriving for a recent tasting we were greeted by the sight of a group of giggling ladies, dressed in pink and floral dresses, who had stopped their car on the side of the road to pose for pictures with the J.C. le Roux entrance sign. As we approached the tasting room we noticed yet more ladies, lounging in the sun next to the water feature, beautifully packaged bottles of MCC decorating their feet. Upon entering we were swept away by streaming chandeliers, made to look like strings of bubbles floating up to the ceiling, a decadent looking pink and grey vintage-print lounger, and individual tables set for relaxed and semi-private tastings, complete with pink tablecloths and rows of gleaming champagne flutes. It was like we had arrived at the VIP section of a secret ladies’ society.

We had our choice of the MCC tasting or a mix of MCC and sparkling wines, plus the added pairing options of sorbet or the “Sweet Delights” selection. We unanimously chose a tasting of MCC range paired with sweet delights – decadent cubes of dark chocolate nougat, rosewater Turkish Delight, vanilla fudge, and more. It was utterly indulgent and worth every bite.

Halfway through we were invited outside to witness a sevrage bottle opening – a traditional technique that employs a sabre to swipe the lip of the bottle, making a clean break in the glass that separates the bottleneck from the lip, a sort of “beheading” that leaves the cork still intact in the bottle top that falls to the ground. History tells us that Napoleon’s cavalry used this method just after the French Revolution to kick-off the celebrations of many victories across Europe. I can’t think of any other tipple with an opening method as show stopping as this, yet another display of the absolute decadence bubbly brings to the table. It’s not just a drink, it’s a glass of joy. Perhaps this is why we love it so much – it takes us back to the days of pomp and circumstance, the feeling of royalty and the pleasure of very special celebrations. Did I mention I love bubbly?

Where: The House of J.C. Le Roux
Ambiance: Glitzy, girly glamour
Hours: Mon-Fri 08H30 – 16H30; Sat (Nov-April) 10H00 – 16H00, (May-Oct) 10H00 – 15H00l; Sun (Nov-April and Public Holidays) 10H00 – 15H00
Address: At the end of Devon Valley Road, Stellenbosch
Tel: 021 865 8200
Various tasting options priced from R30 per person

Life in South Africa

2010-10-12T11:09:00.000-07:00

Dear friend-

Wishing you all the best from the fairest cape in the whole circumference of the globe,

Theresa

Hermanus. Holidaymaking with Gentle Giants

2010-09-05T06:04:00.000-07:00

It’s a sunny Spring day and the sky is full of tall, puffy clouds – the kinds that are full of contours, move slowly and cast shadows as big as the mountains beneath them. I’m sitting on the rocks next to the sea taking in the view. The calm waves are gently lapping below and seagulls are gliding above on the gentle breeze. I’m daydreaming, wandering off towards No-Place-In-Particular, somewhere in my own private bubble. Then a startling noise shakes me out of my head and back to the shoreline – a loud blowing of sorts, just a few meters away. My gaze lands on a place in the water where a puff of smoke still wafts through the air – “No, not smoke,” I think – “it’s the breath of a whale!” And now as if on cue, the view before me comes alive with sounds and a flurry of activity. The wind picks up, my heart rate, too. The birds are diving and calling their seagull screeches, tickling the inside of my ear drums. Somehow the swell of the water seems more intense and as I excitedly walk closer towards the edge of the rocks to see better my steps feel quick and unbalanced. Off in the distance a pod of more than ten dolphins sets course in a storm of splashes and acrobatic breaches and right in front of me, seemingly appearing out of the proverbial woodwork, are at least five more slowly moving whales, waving their tails and sending puffs of damp, warm air through their blowholes. I feel like the scene has been here the whole time, yet it’s only just come into focus – like through sitting still long enough and staring into the distance my eyes have just clicked onto the secret code.

I’m in Hermanus – one of the best places in the world for land-based whale watching. The Southern Right Whale is an annual visitor between June and November, when they come from the chillier waters of the Antarctic to mate, calf and rest – a “whale holiday” I guess you could say. Seeing them in person makes it easy to understand why they are known as Gentle Giants – on average they weigh 40 tons (that’s more than 30 mid-sized cars) and measure up to 15 meters (50 feet – about four classic Cadillac Thunderbirds, lined up edge-to-edge) long! Of course when seeing them from the shore you know you’re only seeing the tip of the iceberg.

A perfect whale watching spot at Hermanus’ Old Harbour is Bientang’s Cave, an unusual restaurant at the base of a rocky cliff on the water’s edge, set into an enormous cave – apparently named after the last Koi Strandloper known to have lived in there at the turn of the 19^th century. This little bit of historical intrigue is in itself enough to make me want to give this spot a try. Admittedly, the food isn’t “to die for” (we stuck to the simpler fare and found our burgers to be over-salted and the chips to be stale), but the unique setting at the entrance to a cave where diners can greet whales from their tables over lunch, truly is. Plus, with a man-sized fireplace blazing and fuzzy throws to keep you warm on chilly days, the management has done well to create an unforgettable experience.

Bientang’s Cave

www.bientangscave.com
Located below Marine Drive, 100m from Old Harbour
Tel: 028 312 3454
Email: bientang@whalemail.co.za
Serving Breakfast and Lunch between 09:00 – 16:00, weather permitting
Dinner by prior arrangement

Baking Cake like the Domestic Goddess

2010-08-23T10:18:00.000-07:00

It’s been almost an hour now. I’ve distracted myself from my anticipation for as long as I can and am ready and waiting when the first aromas tickle my nose. Fresh lemon, buttery almond, warm sweetness – these are the first wafts of a successful cake, I think, bidding “hello” from its cozy place inside my oven. I peek inside and there it is, a perfect golden round, lightly crusted, ready to be cooled and christened with a light dusting of icing sugar, then introduced to its companions Cream, Plate and Fork.

This was a practice run, my first try at making Nigella Lawson’s Damp Lemon & Almond Cake, from How to be a Domestic Goddess. The book is one of the best cookery books I’ve ever bought. Page after page it oozes with decadent temptations that I never thought I could make myself, each one as surprisingly easy to make as it is delicious. These are the things of homemade Grandmother-lore – the perfectly shaped bread loaves, flaky crust pastries, ridiculously rich chocolate puddings, the best scones, sweet and savoury muffins, and of course the cakes – plain, frosted, loafed, cupped or rounded. Don’t even think about attempting one of these recipes unless you’ve stocked up on butter and sugars of all sorts. Oh, and leave the diet in the other room, too. Diet, along with his cohorts Reduced, Less and Skinny, are never invited to a Nigella party.

If you’ve ever watched one of Nigella’s television shows you’ll know that her enthusiasm for food is authentic and contagious. The same can be said for the writing in the book – it’s so full of Nigella’s personality it makes me feel as if I might be right there in the kitchen with the Domestic Goddess herself, having a chat and learning the tricks of the trade. One of the most valuable aspects of the book is that it’s full of tips, short-cuts and how to’s that make reading it both entertaining and enlightening, and making learning new things a little easier.

Which brings me back to the Damp Lemon & Almond Cake, a sweet and zingy success of crumbly yum. Apparently it gets better with time – after a few days blanketed in tin foil, the flavours only intensify. Or so they say – seems I’ll have to try it next time when I’m feeling more patient – one hour was enough greedy anticipation for me.

The recipe: 225g soft unsalted butter, 225g caster sugar, 4 large eggs, 50g plain flour, 225g ground almonds, ½ teaspoon almond essence, grated zest and juice of 2 lemons, 21-23cm Springform cake tin, lined on the bottom. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs one at a time, adding flour after each one. Gently stir in the almonds, almond essence, zest and the juice. Pour into the cake tin and bake for about an hour at 180-degrees Celsius, until a tester comes out almost clean, damp but not gooey.

The book: "How to be a Domestic Goddess - Baking and the Art of Comfort Cooking" by Nigella Lawson (Paperback, Aug. 24 2005) Available at all major bookstores and retails at Amazon.com for $13.59.

Cape Town. Indulgence, Intrigue and Inspiration

2010-08-12T07:48:00.000-07:00

Even if you have limited time, the Mother City offers cosmopolitan culture, historical interest, and a breathtaking landscape.

I am standing on a windswept beach, kilometres of pristine white sand spread out before me and the road along one of the most beautiful mountain drives I had ever experienced up above me. The waves are rolling in, forming aquamarine lines, and with the sun shining I’m revelling in the view and thinking what an amazing place this is, one of the most beautiful places on earth, and how lucky the people who live here are to be able to soak up this majesty every day. That was more than ten years ago – I was a university exchange student from the United States and was privileged to visit South Africa for the very first time. I spent six months in in the country and during that time only a week in Cape Town, but the impression it made on me was timeless.

It turns out I wasn’t the first to be mesmerized by Cape Town’s beauty. Beguiling seas, neatly laid vines and the unmistakable view of Table Mountain – Cape Town is positioned in what Sir Francis Drake declared in 1579 to be the “fairest cape in the whole circumference of the earth.” So renowned as one of the world’s most beautiful places, visitors from faraway lands have been arriving in Cape Town for centuries to experience the contrasts of a bustling, modern city that is framed by a natural amphitheatre, characterized by a distinctly African-European vibe, and within driving distance of world-class beaches and vineyards.

With all this splendour, it’s hard to believe that in the 16^th century this corner of the world was of little interest to anyone except for its functional purpose as a refuelling station for sea-weary ships travelling the trade routes between Europe, India and the Far East. It wasn’t until 1652 that the Dutch East India Company (VOC) established the first permanent European settlement in South Africa. Thanks to the VOC’s free burgher policy, whereby married men were released from their contracts and given farms of their own to cultivate, more and more people made the Cape their permanent home and it quickly outgrew its original purpose as a simple outpost. The move towards permanent settlement by these early settlers had an indelible effect on many aspects of the Cape culture, the extent to which was probably unimaginable at the time and with all the cues from the past, it’s hard for me to wander the streets today and not imagine what it must have been like back then.

Evidence of Cape Town’s early beginnings are scattered throughout the city centre. The most obvious beacon of the past is the Castle of Good Hope, a pentagonal fort with thick stone walls surrounded by a moat, smack in the middle of town, opposite the busy transit centre. Private functions are sometimes hosted at the long banquet table, the same one the highest ranking officials once dined at and whispers of their conversations colour the mood of the room. Pretty Victorian buildings line Long Street, which buzzes with energy day and night. The cobblestone of historic Greenmarket Square has seen its share of change, once a marketplace for slaves, fruit and vegetables, it’s now home to a thriving crafts market lined with trendy eateries. On nearby Adderley Street a statue of Jan van Riebeeck, the founder of Cape Town, stands firm watching over his legacy in the midst of the traffic. Around the corner part of the original Company’s Garden, planted in the 1650’s to supply fresh produce to passing ships, welcomes visitors with tree-lined paths, more than 8000 species of plants and South Africa’s oldest museum – home to a 117,000-year old fossilized human footprint and rare stone artworks of the San people. Visiting the iconic Mount Nelson, a luxury hotel founded in 1899, I felt what I imagined to be a sort of colonial déjà vu while enjoying a decadent Afternoon Tea, lounging in wicker chairs with friends under lazy ceiling fans and taking in the sounds of the Grand Piano serenading the room. Cape Town City Hall, the site for Nelson Mandela’s first public speech after his release from prison in 1990, was built in 1905, designed in the style of the Classical Revival, and built almost entirely from materials imported from Europe.

The overseas influence in Cape Town is made clear by its impressive buildings which range in style from traditional Cape Dutch and Victorian, to trendy Art-Deco and Post-Modern, interrupted in places by the local and now iconic shanty towns of multi-coloured corrugated iron. The diversity of the city’s architectural landscape is just one example of its cosmopolitan heritage. The ancestry of Cape Town’s people demonstrates its diversity even more dramatically, starting with the city’s establishment by the Dutch VOC whose employees hailed from Holland as well as Scandinavia, Russia, the UK, France, Switzerland, Germany, India, Java and China. The British also had a strong cultural influence when they took over the colony in 1795. The slave population, having wide-spread origins in Madagascar, Mauritius, Ceylon, India, Malaysia, Indonesia and southern Africa also contributed to the diversity with the result that today, Cape Town “locals” are not a homogenous group and bring an eclectic mixture of culture, customs, religions, language and food to the multicultural texture one can experience in the city.

Cape Town visitors can have a first-class experience on par with competing destinations all around the world. Spend an afternoon wandering around the Cape Town Harbour, now the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, exploring some of its 450 shops and more than 80 restaurants, set against a dramatic view of Table Mountain. Since 1860 this has been a centre of colourful activity – a trading place, a fish market and an everyday bazaar. If I spend an afternoon wandering the waterfront I can imagine the sounds of the ships back then, the sight of activity set against the backdrop of Table Mountain and the sounds of people who must have spoke, sang and shouted in a multitude of languages. To me it feels as if the thought of these things might be carried on the breeze from some other era. Yet the breeze is not one from yesteryear. The legacy of the harbour’s history lives on today – with throngs of locals and visitors, hundreds of shops selling the best the world has to offer, local craftsmen selling the unique products of Africa, and restaurants serving the cuisine of the world.

For a beautiful view just outside the city bowl you can take in the sunset in trendy Camp’s Bay – the Grand Cafe has an upstairs bar overlooking the beach and offers seductive-shabby-chic decor and live jazz music to carry you away to some other place. Enjoy dinner at The Roundhouse, a historic manor established in 1786 set high up in the hills with a commanding view, sophisticated French fare and one of the best wine pairing menus in town. If you have a really special occasion to celebrate, take a short drive to the beautiful Constantia Valley to enjoy dinner at one of the world’s best restaurants, La Colombe at the Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate, ranked 12^th place in the San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants of the World Awards 2010.

If you need a pinch of reality after feeling too much like a celebrity, not to worry – one of the best aspects of Cape Town is the truly authentic and vibrant encounter visitors can have with the local “salt of the earth” way of life. Kalk Bay, just south of the city, is an artsy village full of antique, book and bric-a-brac shops as well as small cafes and restaurants. Visit the fully functioning harbour where you can see real-deal fishermen return from a day’s work dressed in colourful rubber overalls, cigarettes in hand, their boats laden with the catch of the day. The scene is a lively one as on-lookers crowd the water’s edge and fish to be sold are tossed from the boat, one by one, onto the pavement. Nearby Kalky’s is a local fish and chips institution serving up casual deep fried fare – oily, salty and definitely worth the indulgence. While you wait in the queue you might catch a glimpse of talented Zimbabwean musicians who energize the crowd with the rhythms of West Africa – a mix of jazzy, funky, Afro-beat – singing and dancing to the tunes of handmade xylophones, cow bells and drums. Toes tapping, you can’t help but smile at the music, the unique experience and the beautiful scene overlooking False Bay, buttressed by sharply rising sandstone mountains.

The Table Mountain Range defines the Capetonian landscape, starting with the iconic Table Mountain plateau and the natural amphitheatre it forms around the city bowl. Take the Cable Car to the top for an unforgettable view of the city below. Extending 70-kilometers south of the city, the range is punctuated by the green of the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, a national treasure and UNESCO World Heritage Site, and blanketed by the neat vineyards of Constantia, where world-class wine has been made for the likes of Napoleon for more than 300 years. The Twelve Apostles section frames Camp’s Bay on the Atlantic side and a hike up to the top of Lion’s Head provides a stunning vantage point with 360-degree views of the city and coastline. No trip to Cape Town would be complete without a drive over Chapman’s Peak, a spectacular 9-kilometer winding road set on the edge of dramatic cliffs between Hout Bay and Noordhoek. Dressed by the ribbons of pink and orange clouds at sunrise and glowing in hues of warm red tones at sunset, the drive offers some of the most impressive views anywhere in the world. After experiencing it the first time it made me dream of what it would be like to live here, if only it was possible.

After traversing Chapman’s you can follow the range to the southern-most point in the Cape Point National Park and brave the whipping wind for a view of the original lighthouse. This is the very last point of the Cape of Good Hope, extending out into the pounding waves – the same place where so many sailors of years past made that last, anxious turn north on treacherous journeys towards safety and home. Here the mountain range looks battered but resolute, as if it’s impermeable to the weather’s worst tantrums. As I stand at the edge of the peninsula, now a Cape Town “local” myself, I can imagine that the last gnarled knuckles of the mountain range stand tribute the tenacity of the people who settled here so many years ago, who imparted a legacy that I’m now a part of and that is still unfolding today. It’s this legacy that inspires the feeling one has here – that during the time you spend here it can take you someplace “then,” someplace “there,” and right here – in Cape Town – now.

For more information:
· Castle of Good Hope, www.castleofgoodhope.co.za
· The Company’s Garden, www.capetown.gov.za
· South African Museum, www.iziko.org.za/sam
· Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, www.waterfront.co.za
· Table Mountain Aerial Cable Car, http://tablemountain.net
· Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, www.sanbi.org/frames/kirstfram.htm
· Chapman’s Peak, www.chapmanspeakdrive.co.za
· Cape Point National Park, www.capepoint.co.za
· Mount Nelson Hotel, www.mountnelson.co.za
· Grand Cafe, www.thegrand.co.za
· The Roundhouse, www.theroundhouserestaurant.com
· La Colombe, www.constantia-uitsig.com

Eeny meeny miny moe – is there a better way to pick the perfect wine farm?

2010-07-24T03:52:00.000-07:00

With nearly 200 wine producers represented on the Stellenbosch wine route, 42 active wineries in Franschhoek, and even more in places like Paarl, Tulbagh, Robertson, the Elgin Valley and Constantia, the Cape wine region offers an almost dizzying array of wine farms to choose between when planning a day trip. The chance to experience special wines not widely available has become an expected part of a wine tour – so nowadays the “perfect” destination choice is all the more important and can leave an impression on your experience that extends beyond the rim of your glass.

The sheer number of choices in the Cape attests to the fact that each wine farm offers something special and unique to its visitors – so depending on what you’re looking for in a day-trip, not all will rank the same. Plus, the type of experience you’re looking for might also change from trip to trip – perhaps based on your mood, your company, or even the weather. Thankfully there are so many options there’s bound to be something suitable for any occasion. You can choose between the Grand Dames of historical significance, stylish boutiques with an international flare, down-to-earth farmer’s farms, and destination estates that make you feel like you’ve left South Africa and stepped into another part of the world – perhaps to a château in France or to an architect’s dream in Napa – with all the “fabulous” and none of the expense or unsavory jetlag. Frumpy and formal, laid back and social, warm and cozy, chilled and minimalist – the choice is yours.

With all these options the question remains – how do you choose the “right” wine estate, especially if you have high expectations and limited time? Ultimately the answer depends on you – since your idea of the perfect day probably won’t be the same as mine, your best friend’s and definitely not your brother’s – but starting to plan your experience can be straightforward if you give some thought to a few parameters. Here are a few tips and suggestions to help get you started:

The Vibe: Think about how would you like to spend your time while in the tasting room – do you want to find a relaxed spot by the fire and linger over your wine while chatting with friends, or would you prefer a more formal affair where you can taste at the bar while investigating your fancies with intricate questions about the vintage, the viticulture or the wine making techniques?

Informal: Muratie Wine Estate, Stellenbosch – Here you’ll be greeted by the mostly University-student staff who run the tasting room with a friendly, welcoming spirit, keeping the terroir-driven wine flowing as much as the conversation. Best of all, they seem to enjoy the experience as much as you do, even after closing time. Noteworthy wine: 2007 Shiraz, awarded 92-points by the Wine Enthusiast. www.muratie.co.za

Formal: Kanonkop Wine Estate, Stellenbosch – Recognized as one of South Africa’s top makers of Pinotage and as one of South Africa’s top wine estates by the John Platter Guide. The tasting room is polished and gleaming, the attendants well-informed. Noteworthy wine: 2008 Kanonkop Kadette, awarded 91-points by Wine Enthusiast; 2006 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, ranked five-stars by the John Platter Guide. www.kanonkop.co.za

The Wine: Since different regions excel in different types of wine depending on the terroir you should consider whether you have a particular type of wine you’d like to explore and may help you to choose the right area for you – cool and coastal for Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc, or warm and sunny for rich berry reds. If the region isn’t a good indicator, perhaps try specialist wine farms who take great care and pride in your preferred tipple:

Method Cap Classique: Cabriére Estate, Franschhoek – One of South Africa’s premier sparkling wine estates, the tasting room is set below ground level and view of the cellar further below creates a cozy feeling. If it’s a sunny day, enjoy your bubbly on the front lawn while taking in the towering views of the Franschhoek Pass. Noteworthy wine: Cuvée Reserve, 5+ years on the lees. www.cabriere.co.za

Chardonnay: Jordan Wine Estate, Stellenbosch – Off the beaten track, the road leading to Jordan takes you past farms and fields creating the feeling that you’re away in the countryside. Enjoy a leisurely tasting on the shady deck while taking in the view of the lake and the mountains. Noteworthy wines: 2006 Jordan Chardonnay and 2007 Nine Yards Chardonnay, both awarded 90-points by Wine Spectator. www.jordanwines.com

The Personality: The architecture, surrounding landscape, views and general personality of a place can leave a big impression on your exerience so if you think carefully about what you’re in the mood for you’ll probably have a better time. To highlight just a few there are the Grand Dames, flanked by the legacy of winemaking history, and there are new players inspired by a cosmopolitan playfulness and design culture:

Grand Dame: Vergelegen Estate, Somerset West – An understated rare find –Vergelegen was founded in 1685 and is complete with historic buildings, 17 themed gardens, a 1,000-year old Camphor Forest, some of the Cape’s most highly regarded wines and a legacy of intrigue. Noteworthy wines: 2004 Stellenbosch V, awarded 92-points, the 2003 Stellenbosch flagship Red Blend, awarded 93-points, and the 2005 White blend, awarded 94-points, all by the International Wine Cellar; 2008 Vergelegen White, awarded 5-stars by the John Platter Guide. www.vergelegen.co.za

Cosmopolitan Player: Delaire Graff Estate, Stellenbosch – Set at the top of the Helshoogte Mountain Pass, it would be easy for Delaire to rely on the view alone to draw a crowd yet no expense has been spared at creating a premier tasting experience in a luxurious setting including calming water features, original artworks, custom-made leather furniture and one of the wineland’s most renowned restaurants. Noteworthy wine: 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, awarded 5-stars by the John Platter Guide. www.delaire.co.za

The Approach: Sometimes the approach a winemaker takes towards the final product is evident in the feeling of the estate. There are the stylistic icons, where every detail is attended to and quality is the holy grail, perhaps like the approach taken in Michelin Star kitchens, and there are others where the feeling is more relaxed, perhaps like the vibe in a warm and inviting country kitchen:

Michelin Star: De Trafford Wines, Stellenbosch – Hidden away at the end of a quiet country road, De Trafford sits among overgrown greenery and bougainvillea. A boutique winery, attention to detail is critical and everything is done by hand – including picking the grapes, filling and corking the bottles. Noteworthy wine: 2006 De Trafford Perspective and 2006 De Trafford Shiraz, both ranked five-stars by the John Platter Guide. www.detrafford.co.za

Country Kitchen: Springfield Estate, Robertson – Set on a relaxed farm in Robertson, Springfield is family-run and well away from the hustle and bustle. The tasting room and cellar are bordered by a dam framed by mountain views and you’re welcome to spend time with your own picnic basket under the shade trees. A short meander and you’ll no doubt meet the resident flock of ducks and herd of springbok. Noteworthy wine: The Méthod Ancienne Cabernet Sauvignon is made from a single vineyard using native yeast fermentation and spends two-years on the lees plus a minimum of two more years in the bottle. www.springfieldestate.com

The Setting: Sometimes you feel like getting away from it all – maybe it’s a simple trip to the country you’re dreaming of, or maybe you want something more glamorous – like a trip overseas. Even if you can’t indulge in a full-blown holiday, you can spend time at a destination estate and start to feel like you have – if only for a few hours:

French Château: Waterford Estate, Stellenbosch – Visitors are greeted by neat rows of citrus groves leading to the steps of the winery, designed in the style of the classic Bordeaux châteaus of France. The inner courtyard and a lovely fountain make a pleasant setting for your tasting – if you’re feeling like something sweet, try the unique chocolate and wine pairing. Noteworthy wine: ’03 Kevin Arnold Shiraz, awarded 91 points by Wine Spectator. www.waterfordestate.co.za

Rural Classic: Rustenberg Estate, Stellenbosch – As if historical significance and top quality wines were not enough, Rustenberg’s picture is completed by a beautiful setting 2-kilometers down an idyllic road lined with babbling brooks, overgrown oaks, and happily grazing cattle. Noteworthy wine: 2006 John X Merriman, a red-blend, awarded 91 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and the Wine & Spirits Magazine; 2008 Chardonnay, awarded 90-points by Wine Spectator; 2007 Rustenberg Stellenbosch Syrah, awarded five-stars by the John Platter Guide. www.rustenberg.co.za

American wine tastings can be bitter

2010-07-17T09:03:00.000-07:00

OK, so I am an American and have been living in South Africa for over four years. Today I spent the day enjoying the Cape Winelands and, just as I have in the past, happened to bump into a few American tourists. First, let me say how fantastic it is to see my fellow countrymen enjoying this corner of the world - well done, for only so few of us ever make it out this way. Second, at the risk of sounding like a foreign-wannabe-snob, please indulge me as a give out a few hints to my fellow countrymen at how to fly a little bit more "under the radar" when touring abroad.

OK, before I proceed, I can feel it - you're already thinking, what is she talking about, she's one of us?! And before you think too far down that path, let's be honest with one another and face an unpleasant truth. Whether we want to admit it or not, we all know those stereotypes of "the loud annoying American tourist" usually clad in white Reeboks with fanny pack in tow? "Yes!" you're thinking, "so 'not' one of those!" And thankfully, it's true. A lot of Americans in Africa are not dressed that way - instead we wear safari gear and expensive photographic equipment, and unfortunately, the 'annoying tourist' is not always defined by wardrobe choices.

Anyways, I digress. If you should perhaps find yourself in the Cape Winelands, here are three tips on how to fly a little more under the radar - you'll have a better chat with the people around you and maybe get to know the place a little better, too:

Tip #1 - if the volume of your conversation exceeds the volume of all of the combined conversations around you, notice it and consider speaking just a little bit more softly

Tip #2 - if you have finished your wine tasting and are ready to purchase a few of your favourites, yet find that the person who was attending to you has started to chat with the people around you - perhaps wait until the chat has concluded, or better, join in yourself, rather than interrupt the chat to insist on "ordering" your bottles right now. There is a laid back vibe in the tasting rooms of SA and people are not really accustomed to taking abrupt orders - rather chill out and enjoy your time, what's the rush in any case?

Tip #3 - if you really need to know the price in dollars rather than rands before you make your purchasing decisions, to determine whether the wine is a "good deal" or not, rather talk quietly among yourselves and bear in mind that the people working in the tasting rooms earn meager salaries and live practically at the bread line. Whether you're rich in America or you're just an Average Joe, you are living at a standard way beyond most people in South Africa and a little tact will go a long way.

Life in Limboland

2010-07-11T07:46:00.000-07:00

Living abroad makes you feel like you're odd man out - you know, like that feeling you get sometimes, like everyone is watching you? Like maybe you just realized you’ve had something stuck in your teeth for the last hour, or you’ve been walking around with a section of toilet paper stuck to your shoe? You feel conspicuous, like suddenly everyone else is very noble and you are just, well, you.

Well, I’ve realized that when you decide to live abroad a similar phenomena happens – you are a foreigner, you are indeed odd man out. And even as I get more comfortable in my new life and hear that my accent is evolving, I know without any doubt that I am not from “here.” I am from “there.”

But sometime even though I know this to be the truth, an even stranger thing happens. Sometimes people whom you’ve gotten to know “here” seem to forget that you are from “there” – like in conversations with people who sometimes correct your pronunciation so that it sounds more like “here,” like maybe I forgot or perhaps spent too much time watching American television. Worse still, there are those that don’t believe you could really be from “there,” even to the extent that they mistake me for an imposter – a person who is just putting on a funny accent – a pretender, a wannabe, or someone who spent their childhood holiday in the States and became so enamoured they could never bear to shake it off.

The worst phenomena of all that happens when you’re living abroad is that sometimes people from “there” – from where I am really from – start to think that I am odd man out, too. Imagine when your friends start to tell you stories as if you’re actually a foreigner to them – they all start the same, “Well in America, blah blah blah...” I don’t know why this bothers me, probably because I never expected it and because deep inside I am still hoping to fit in someplace in the world. But I guess to be fair I must admit that this is at least partially true. I’m not like everyone “there” any more – even though I’m also not like everyone “here.” I am a member of a small population of people who are just like me, even though they’ve never met me or even each other, because they have also left home and started a new life someplace far away. The very nature of our decision means that we live in isolation from one another. We are Limbolanders – sort of in between – having the foundation and values of our homelands, the new learnings of our new lands and a sort-of understanding of both as we slowly lose touch with our old place and gain touch in our new place.

Life for Limbolanders is a kaleidoscope of learnings gained “everywhere” – I have friends all over the world, yet most of them don’t know each other and sadly, will probably never even be in the same room together. They are my virtual Sunday afternoon walking partners, my Friday-night-drinks crew, my shopping buddies – the fact that we are chatting over the phone while in different parks across the globe, or that we are in our separate homes connected by Skype over a glass of red, or that the shop happens to be on the internet – doesn’t change our connection to one another.

And this, in fact, is the most amazing phenomena of all – the fact that the deepest and truest of friendships can survive travel miles and time zones, that no matter where in the world you hang your hat you can keep these treasures with you like jewels in your pocket, even as you gather new ones.

Ayoba turns to Eina – South Africa’s World Cup Dream is Crumbling

2010-06-19T11:56:00.000-07:00

Bafana Bafana, South Africa’s national soccer team, is ranked 88^th in the world and of the 32 teams participating in the Fifa 2010 World Cup, only one team (North Korea) – is ranked lower. Yet even against terrible odds South Africans have held hope that their team will win the tournament and even the President, Jacob Zuma, has said publicly that he has “great faith” that the team can win the Cup for the nation. Perhaps it is the euphoria of playing host to the World Cup that has imbibed this child-like belief that a win is possible – like the battle between David and Goliath might play out again, or that the magic of a Sangoma – a traditional African witchdoctor – will transform this unlikely dream into reality.

There is a feeling that this is South Africa’s time – that somehow the decision to bring the Cup here has enabled the country to be finally born anew, washed of the scars of its apartheid past, freed for from the discomforts of poverty, released from the animosity between classes, its people finally united in pride and overwhelmed with jubilation – if only for a month. A feverish energy on Opening Day became inescapable – it was already apparent that the day would be filled with excitement, but this was an upwelling of large proportions and caught some off guard. Businesses planned to remain open, mostly for half-days, but the mindset of employees everywhere was on a single track – focused on the first match, made evident in the sea of green and gold jerseys that almost everyone wore to work that day – ayoba (amazing) the World Cup was finally here.

South Africa ended its first match in a draw – but the performance of the team was strong and so was the sound of the vuvuzela, a triumphant noise of support. Day by day the efficient machine of the Cup carries on operating relatively smoothly and news headlines echo a collective sigh of relief as the nation proves itself to the world, that yes – we can do this, and everyone nods in agreement, well done to South Africa. But after South Africa’s second match – a loss and a disappointing show of skill – it became evident that the euphoria is starting to wane.

Just over one week into the tournament, Bafana Bafana now stands with one of the worst host nation performances in World Cup history yet it will need to defeat France – a former world champion and a true Goliath – just to stay in the game and proceed to the next round. The buzz of the vuvuzela is going softer now, eina (ouch), Bafana, eina – the feeling now is unsettled, tense, afraid of what might happen in the next match – the last chance. Bafana, the nation’s heart is hoping and crying for you.

National Pride, Jubilation & the Fifa World Cup in South Africa

2010-06-12T04:20:00.000-07:00

South Africa is awash in flags – not just the South African flag, but flags of all nations. Flags drape buildings, line the sides of the roads, fly from the windows of cars and decorate office spaces. Street hawkers stand in intersections and wave the flags for sale – the vibe is one of celebration. The air is thick with energy, of excitement and passion. The feeling is everywhere – in the streets, on the radio, the television, and in everyday conversation – pervasive and inescapable. Finally after years of preparation, scepticism and anticipation, today is the dawn of the Fifa World Cup, surely the biggest event of its kind ever in Africa.

In the early hours of the morning, even before the sunrise, I wake to the sounds of a distant vuvuzela – that monotone sounding horn that creates an ear-splitting decibel, greater than a chainsaw but much beloved as a symbol for the Cup by everyone. On my way to work I drive past an open-air tour bus on its way through Camps Bay, full of celebrating fans singing songs, blowing vuvu’s, waving and hanging themselves over the sides. I remind myself that it’s still only 8AM. Coming through town I pass a flat bed truck full of workers in overalls singing and dancing in much the same fashion. As I drive past the ferris wheel that has suddenly appeared in the centre of town, gleaming in the morning sun, it is hard to believe that today is supposed to be a normal work day.

Once at the office the mood is one of delirium and I continue to wonder what I am doing here. Finally, about lunchtime, I am free and make my way through to the City Bowl – on the way I get the feeling I am about to be part of something very important. The highway to town is eerily deserted – not due to poor turnout but because it seems everyone is already there. The fan walk near Green Market Square means that some of the streets are blocked off, but even on those that aren’t the crowds roam freely, striding wherever they please, forming a fabric of green and gold, South Africa’s team colours. The sound of hundreds of vuvuzeles becomes a singular buzz, like I am inside a giant vibrating beehive.

I leave the City Bowl for the Waterfront, where big screens have been set up to watch the very first game, South Africa vs. Mexico. Again the park is overcrowded with celebrations and there is no chance of getting near the viewing area – the closer I get to the screen the more crowded – shoulder-to-shoulder and in some places even less, to the point I cannot move unless the crowd that I have somehow lost myself within, decides to. Surrounded by fans singing, dancing and waving flags, unable to move forwards or backwards and being shoved along by the energy of the herd, my mind flashes back to stories of stampedes and balcony collapses and I understand how those things can happen. Time passes and eventually I spill out of the group and back to myself, to my own volition.

I find a more comfortable place out of the way – with a view of a TV off in the distance. After a while South Africa scores the first goal of the Cup and the crowd erupts explosively, the noise crackles and reverberates everywhere. It’s hard not to get swept up, to feel the pride of the nation, to be part of the stampede of frenetic joy that has combusted across the nation – I can’t help but feel it and know that the World Cup, ayoba, is here.

Fun & Games at Home Affairs

2010-06-08T08:05:00.000-07:00

I always knew living abroad would be full of fun and games. Now that I've been living in South Africa for four years, my original permit has expired and I've applied for a visa - a visa extension, to be exact. The Home Affairs guy said it's a routine application - so routine, it's for free. Here's a little insight into the process and how you might be able to have almost as much fun as me:

Hoop #1 Go to the Home Affairs web site to download the application and list of required documents – review this information very carefully – dot all your i’s and cross all your t’s

Hoop #2 Go to Home Affairs in person to submit said-application form and documents – get told, “No, no – this is ALL wrong – who gave you this?” “The web site,” I reply. I take a new application form and start over again.

Hoop #3 Dutifully gather required documents including letters from my employer and my partner. Visit the local police station – secure official stamps. Make affidavits and declarations. Copy, repeat.

Hoop #4 Go back to Home Affairs, my partner in tow. They need to see it to believe it. Wait for 2 hours. I notice that Immigration lawyers have a special que – I think how much money I’m saving this time, doing this myself, all for free. More time passes. Finally I submit, receive a receipt and leave with false hope that everything is now sorted – “just 30 days,” I think, “then I’ll get the new stamp.” That was easy.

Hoop #5 The 30 days pass – I go back to Home Affairs. Wait. Wait for 3 hours. Get told they can’t find my application, jeepers, where could it be? They ask, “How long do you want to wait?” They look tired now – like I’ve asked for too much. I wait some more – I tell them they have to find it. I leave a few hours later with a phone number to call – more false hope, otherwise empty-handed.

Hoop #6 I call the number. No one answers the phone.

Hoop #7 I call a few days later and get disconnected. I call back – it’s as if they know it’s me – again. No one answers the phone.

Hoop #8 I call and get told to “Come in with your receipt.” I say “but I already did that – they told me to call.” She tries to transfer me – about five times – then I get disconnected. I call again. No one answers the phone.

Hoop #9 Hire an immigration attorney. Continue waiting for my new visa stamp – and the bill. Can’t believe they said this was free.

Climactic Conditions & Being a Surfer's Girlfriend

2010-05-23T08:52:00.000-07:00

Being the girlfriend of a surfer has taught me many things. I’ve always had the travel bug and surfing inevitably takes you in search of new places, so it’s a good match in more ways than one. Together we’ve churned up the dust on lots of pothole-filled back roads on our way through isolated sections in not-for-tourists zones, where the locals look up at you in surprise because visitors are a novelty. I can unpack a boot, jack up a car and change a flat tyre in 5-minutes flat. I’ve become a practiced wave photographer – enjoying my time on the beach while snapping up lifetime memories that can be savored and celebrated. I’ve found myself in the middle of the ocean – kayaking or snorkeling where I would never go alone – taking in the beauty of aquamarine water, seeing the shore from the other side, meeting inquisitive sea-friends and strange alien looking plantlife. I’ve been dunked by walls of seawater, sputtering to the surface like a fledgling painfully trying to learn to surf my own fun. I’ve gone on adventures when most stay inside cozy under a duvet – braving the rain, the wind and the cold – to catch a glimpse of Mother Nature gracing the seas with big swell, big waves and big dreams.

In surfing, the convergence of a myriad of factors makes for perfect conditions: the wind direction, the swell height, period and direction, the angle of the beach, the tide and the cycle of the moon – Neap or Spring – the time of day. For some surf spots these things unite only on rare occasions, making the event one of significance and worthy of the chase, to travel at odd times, seeking out the dream. I’ve always been spontaneous but now the weather patterns have become a deciding factor in my life – beach holidays are no longer decided by the condition of the sun but by the direction of the wind and on storm patterns emerging from the deep Antarctic. Hand-drawn synoptic charts, plotted in purple, red and orange, have taken me as far away as Mozambique and Namibia, and just about everywhere in between.

As co-pilot on surfing adventures I’ve learnt that when the time is right and a window of opportunity presents itself in a moment, you have to be ready. And even though I’m not the one suiting up and jumping into the sea, there are many fringe benefits like the exciting feeling of discovery, experiencing beautiful landscapes and taking in the magic of the sea. And so it was that I found myself awakening in the cozy predawn darkness on a wintry morning – rising, dressing and rushing to the car for a new expedition. We were chasing the tide and the dawn for the promise of a new surf spot up the West Coast of South Africa.

We drove through the darkness blanketed by fog – at times visibility was limited to only a car’s length, maybe two. The headlights punctured the mist with inadequate shafts of light. Eventually the mist lifted and the dawn presented itself to us in shades of pink, orange and yellow – lighting up the sky in beautiful streaks of colour. We arrived at our destination on a lonely strip of beach, seemingly isolated yet managed by a gate keeper who greeted us with clipboard in hand and made friendly small talk as he slowly signed us in. We were at the doorstep of a beach resort, and were obliged even though we were not guests. Paperwork completed, we were finally free.

We got started on our walk – 4-kilometres to go – and celebrated as we found ourselves starting the day in the West Coast, taking in its few unmistakable characteristics – a red dirt trail, scrubby bushland crowded by one colourful succulent plant after another, thorny bushes, lucent green and dark rich browns in the dew of the morning, everything wet, and birds – everywhere birds, gliding through the long view of the Swartland.

We eventually found the spot through the wonders of Google Earth, a GPS-enabled phone, and hearsay. We celebrated as we found ourselves in view of Table Mountain across the bay, shrouded in pink clouds. The beach had a steep pitch and as the waves broke on the shallow sandbar the water rushed back down the slope, crashing into the sea, churning and causing a great wobble on the surface. The backwash caused the waves to double in height and as they closed out the sound reverberated like thunder.

After the surf we were back in the car and passed by the harbour – the fishing boats had come in, laden with hundreds of Snoek – some of them still gasping, drowning in air – and an assault of relentless screeching seagulls circulating overhead, their noise overwhelming and as charming as nails on a chalkboard. The fishermen called out their prices, one voice on top of the next, all the while cleaning the fish on the side of the boat, splattering blood, dumping the guts and tossing the fish into boxes for transport. We scored two enormous fish – a rare treat.

We headed home through Darling – a small town made famous for its history, quaint buildings, a local satirical celebrity who makes his living by poking fun at the government while dressed as a woman and last but not least, wine farms. We drove through rolling farmland lined with row upon row of grapevines with yellow and brown leaves, about to fall to the ground before a winter’s sleep during the rainy months to come. We stopped at Darling Cellars for a taste of their berry-rich Pinotage and were greeted by the farmer’s wife from behind a giant tasting bar made to look like a wooden wine barrel. She generously treated us to samples while straight-talking stories of farm life in a gentle voice that masked her sharp wit.

Our day complete, we returned home with memories of the foggy journey, a pink sunrise, the discovery of a new place, photos of beautiful surf, the freshest Snoek possible and Darling wine. We were only an hour from home but it felt like we’d gone so much farther. I couldn’t help thinking how nice it is to be a surfer’s girlfriend and co-pilot on trips that take you to so many more places than the surf spot alone, and that once again leaving things to chance – or rather to the weather – turned out better than we could have ever planned.