Monday, March 7, 2011

Humble and Historic – Tulbagh Awaits

Tulbagh. It’s a place that’s just out of reach but one that seems to keep its hold on you long after you’ve left. Beyond the grasp of tourism, one and a half hours from Cape Town, it’s an historic haven off the beaten wine lands tracks in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. A rare treasure, its honest authenticity has survived its modern day need to play on the world stage as a premiere wine making region.

Church Street is perhaps the most famous example of Tulbagh’s past – building after building it is a national monument of Cape Dutch architecture, painstakingly restored after a devastating earthquake destroyed the original structures back in the 1940’s. Perhaps it was only a latent aftershock from the “big one” that must have formed Tulbagh into such a dramatic valley so many millennia ago.

No longer private homes, these days the national monuments of Church Street have mostly been converted into an array of B&B’s, curios and cafés. With all the modern excitement it’s difficult to imagine the truth of the past, when Tulbagh’s first citizens bustled along this lane conducting the business of the day. But for the observative, a raw reminder of Tulbagh’s founding souls can be found at the Church itself, just at the edge of town. Walk through the gates and the respect of generations will envelop you as your eyes settle on one ancient tombstone after another. The names, the dates – the only thing these souls have left on God’s earth – now crumbling into the distance, about to join the bones of their patrons in surrender to the elements. Nothing lasts forever – and to me it feels like an honour to hold testament, if only for a moment.

Just a few minutes out of town, the road meanders into the countryside past picturesque wine estates. Drostdy-Hof Manor stands watch like old faithful, flanked by others who hold the valley’s humility steadfast whilst making an impression on the palettes of unsuspecting wine lovers everywhere: the fourth-generation Twee Jonge Gezellen Estate “The House of Krone”, Saronsberg Cellar, and the historic Oude Compagnies Post. It’s easy to get swept up in the romance of the place – and the chapel at Montpellier stands like a beacon to such notions, its small stature belying its position amongst the vines on a hillside of monumental beauty.

It seems to me that the people who visit Tulbagh have something in common with the people that live there – maybe we’re drawn by the call of the mountain range, the quiet that moves on the breeze, or even the past that seems to whisper from every rock, nook and cranny. Something draws us all there – something that makes the jagged mountain peaks that curve overhead in the shape of a horseshoe landscape feel like home’s embrace.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Lucky Charms & Sensational Bites: Port Elizabeth’s Narai Siam Thai Kitchen

Located in an unassuming converted house on a quiet, out of the way street in Newton Park, Narai Siam Thai Kitchen’s exterior seems ho-hum, a striking contrast to the inside, which makes you feel like you’ve been carried away by a crowd of Thai nationals in an Asian version of Carnival. Every table, wall and even the ceiling is adorned with authentic Thai tapestries in hot pink, yellow, green and blue. Shimmering mirrors reflect light like little disco balls, making the space feel larger than life. The feeling is festive, casual, and definitely fun – perfect for groups in a celebratory mood.


This is the vision of Colin Beelders and his partner, a Thai national. Over the years they have painstakingly sourced each element of the décor in Thailand and travelled with them back to South Africa. Apparently the décor does much to inspire the guests and some, the owners say, are simply overwhelmed by the temptation to tinker with the glittering ornaments, even slipping them into their handbags alongside extra dinner mints. Colin explains, “Unfortunately things are sometimes stolen or broken,” he shrugs, “sometimes we get them back.”


Colin continues, “The restaurant’s name is inspired by a Thai king whose temple in Lopburi is most famous for its annual Festival of Monkeys.” The temple has become a tourist attraction since 2,000 monkeys decided to take up residence. These crafty monkeys have a habit of sneaking up on unsuspecting tourists and pick-pocketing small items like car keys or snacks before scampering off. I can’t help but make the correlation between the monkey-thieves at the temple in Thailand and patrons in Port Elizabeth who would pause between bites to strip the walls of their ornaments.


Determined to leave things in their place, my friend and I are looking forward to our lunch out on an otherwise average day. We make small talk with our host who brings us order-by-number menus. There is something to be said for these – somehow I always fool myself into believing I don’t need the extra help but invariably realize after several mangled attempts at Thai that ordering by number isn’t so bad after all.


We start with easy-to-pronounce Tom Yum Soup, a house specialty, and order a bottle of Noble Hill Sauvignon Blanc – a perfect companion to Thai food because of its lemony, crisp finish. The soup is warming and has just enough spice to balance the sweetness. For the entrée we decide to share two of the restaurant’s signature dishes, my favourite, #13 (that’s Kang Keow Wan Gai – sweet green curry)with chicken, and #42 (Pad Nam Phrik Phao – stir fried and roasted chilli paste) with beef. In both dishes, the vegetables are perfectly cooked – seared but still crisp fresh. The rich coconut of the green curry is complemented by mild spice and lifted by the zing of lemongrass – the combination is a gentle dance in my mouth. The chili dish by contrast is feisty and full of kick, richness and depth of flavour. As the restaurant starts to fill with aromas from the kitchen and the energy of other patrons the space is transformed into a mid-day’s party. Just a few bites in and we are loving the food and the vibe.


When the coast is clear we sneak away to have a peek at the infamous men’s loo – where the interior is guaranteed to bring a laugh, if not a blush as red as sweet chili sauce due to the many phallic statues adorning the space. Obscene and hilarious to us westerners, it turns out we are missing the point entirely. These figures are lucky charms, known as Palad Khik, and have been highly regarded in Thai society since the 8th century AD for their powers to bring good luck, prosperity, protection against evil forces and last but not least – to increase one’s sex appeal. Quite the norm in Thailand, they are even worn as necklaces.


I don’t know about you, but I somehow doubt I could ever fall head over heels for a man wearing a giant phallic charm around his neck, but I suppose one never really knows until one is faced with the situation.


We return to the table giggling. We catch our breath and turn to high-five the table of ladies next to us – their turn is up. Still feeling flushed, we decide to cool down over Thai iced teas – brewed to perfection, they are sweet, authentically Thai and beautiful to look at – just like the restaurant, which seems to have made it to the end of lunch largely intact. Although I haven’t seen anyone slipping trinkets into their takeaway boxes it still feels like we’ve got up to a bit of mischief – sort of like those monkeys living in the famous temple in Lopburi. Something tells me King Narai would be proud.

  • HOURS: OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER, MON – SAT, 12H00 ‘TIL 23H00
  • LICENSED: YES; R35 CORKAGE FEE
  • AMBIANCE: CASUAL & FUN, LIKE THE FESTIVAL OF MONKEYS
  • AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R55
  • ADDRESS: 20 WORRAKER STREET (BETWEEN 2ND & 3RD AVENUES), NEWTON PARK, PORT ELIZABETH
  • TEL: 041 363 8126

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Global Gourmet: The Restaurant at Clos Malverne

A flair for contemporary classics and complex flavour combinations are just two of Nadia Louw Smith’s culinary talents, as Theresa Lozier discovered when she chatted to Clos Malverne’s executive chef over a sophisticated seasonal lunch.

Childhood memories – we all have them. Those moments that stay with us our whole lives, taking us back to the way we felt, to the sights, sounds, and smells that we had for that fraction of time. For some of us, like Nadia Louw Smith, a childhood experience can have the power to influence the course of our lives.

“I remember my family going to my grandmother’s home for Sunday lunch,” she explains. “The house was always filled with the smells of her freshly baked bread and traditional roast. Those were very happy times.” She continues, “My grandmother was my biggest influence and inspired me to follow my interest in food. Being in the kitchen never felt like work to me – it was always fun, creative – and I often helped my mother in the kitchen in the evenings. After a while, my dad used to tease her that my food was better!” She laughs gently, and the twinkle in her eye belies her humble demeanor.

Her father was right to take note of her early talent. Nadia’s career has spanned South Africa’s culinary landscape – from five-star luxury at Cape Town’s Mandela Rhodes Place Hotel & Spa, to the Cederberg’s world-renowned Bushmanskloof Wilderness Resort (hailed as the “Best Hotel for Food” by Condé Nast Traveler magazine), and the cosmopolitan flair of the Cinnamon Boutique Restaurant in Wilderness. In 2009 she traded the shores of the Garden Route for the rolling hills of the Devon Valley outside Stellenbosch, becoming the driving force behind the launch of The Restaurant @ Clos Malverne.

Nadia relfects, “I’ve been here since the beginning – since the launch of the restaurant. I wouldn’t have it any other way. I get to set the standards, train the staff and the menu is me – it’s my food. I love combining flavours and, since the wine adds such an important dimension to the dining experience, I really enjoy the added complexity.”

Located 40-min from Cape Town, Clos Malverne is an idyllic country getaway set among the vines. Its gorgeous spa is a highlight for those looking for some daytime pampering - combined with lunch, visitors can really get away from it all. Other drawcards include award-winning wine, a sophisticated yet approachable setting, the wraparound balcony with a view of the vines and unpretentious, global cuisine.

As executive chef, Nadia ensures the menu takes its cue from nature – most of the fresh greens come from the wine estate’s own organic vegetable and herb garden – and offerings change every few months to make the most of the seasons. As much as possible, ingredients are sourced locally and handcrafted onsite – like the Franschhoek salmon trout that Nadia cures herself. A cosmopolitan influence of flavours is evident on the menu but the common denominator is a feeling of down-to-earth accessibility. Nadia says, “There are so many cultures to be inspired by – even here in South Africa, our food reflects our diverse roots – we have Dutch, Afrikaans, English, Malaysian, Indonesian, and Indian influences – and it’s wonderful to enjoy these flavours as contemporary classics. Soon we’ll even be launching a series of five-course gourmet evenings where we’ll have a bit of fun celebrating these flavours with all the style of fine dining.”

The lunch menu is made up of three indulgent courses, incorporating complex flavours like dill, thyme, citrus, and star-aniseed. For starters, Nadia recommends the tempura prawns served with a homemade chili sauce – the crispy batter, sweet meat and hot spice are complemented by a cool mango salad and paired with the estate’s crisp Sauvignon Blanc. For mains we try Nadia’s personal favourite, the orange and star-aniseed marinated duck breast, served with roast vegetables and a sweet potato cake that is coated in bread crumbs and fried until crisp on the outside. The combination of textures and rich, deep flavours pair well with the estate’s slightly fruity shiraz. The signature grilled beef fillet, sourced from a local farm, comes topped with your choice of sauces – but if you ask me, the creamy brandy pepper sauce is a “must-try”. Pair it with the flagship Auret, a distinctive blend of cabernet, pinotage and merlot that delivers elegant structure and just enough berry. Whatever you do, save a little space for dessert – both the vanilla pod crème brûlée and the dark chocolate fondant are to die for – the latter oozes with 80% Belgian chocolate and makes your plate an absolute mess of utter delight.

The Details:
  • The Restaurant @ Clos Malverne Wine Estate is now also open for Sunday lunch
  • A series of five-course Gourmet Evenings kick-off on Friday, 25 Feb for R295 per person
  • For more information or to reserve your table phone 021 865 2022, visit www.closmalverne.co.za or email info@closmalverne.co.za

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Revel in Romance & Rosé this Valentine’s at Simonsig’s Cuvée Restaurant



It’s February in the Cape – summer’s happiest month – and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. You know the one – that day that’s steeped in nostalgia and fairy tales, rooted in loving proclamations, reckless abandon, confessions and promises, filled to the brim with sweet nothings and everything else in between. It’s a day of passion – passionate love for some and fear and loathing for others. Will you have an unforgettable one? Will you find that someone in time? Or do you think it’s just a lot of hoo-haw invented by the likes of Hallmark? No matter which side of the emotional fence you’re sitting on we can’t seem to get past this day without feeling something and to be honest, so far I’ve been feeling like a bit of a skeptic.

After all, Valentine’s falls on a Monday this year – the most mundane of all days in the week – and with a job full of travel and tired evenings it seems like a lot of effort just to say “I love you” to someone I see every day. So when my special someone suggested we make it our own day and celebrate a little early, I was surprised to hear myself instantly agree, taken over by the whims of my secret romantic side or perhaps shot through the heart by Cupid’s golden arrow.

And so it was that we found ourselves at Simonsig’s signature restaurant, Cuvée, for an afternoon of carefree conversation, fine dining, premium wine and celebration. Upon arrival we were treated to a tasting of the Méthod Cap Classique range – lifting our spirits like the bubbles in our glasses. I must have forgotten my inner skeptic back in the car since I forgot all about my initial reservations while wandering under the oaks in the garden.

Set under a vine-covered trellis, the Cape Dutch building created a romantic setting and the nearby fountain trickled a slow melody in the heat of summer’s embrace. It was a cool relief to come indoors and sit like VIP’s, enjoying the view of the mountains framed by floor-to-ceiling drapes in soft hues of beige, cream and sultry grey. The darkness of the wood floors and tables created a rich feeling and the sound of jazz vocals moved softly through the air, a faraway voice of crystallized emotion. A modern mix of kitsch and style, the décor included chandeliers formed by a medley of glassware and china, suspended from the rafters in the double volume space above us, and silver light fixtures gleaming from their view of a century’s old wine press.

In the spirit of the occasion we chose the Rosé-inspired menu, only available until the end of April, which celebrates the earthy, berry flavours of the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé. Our waitress, Wilma, treated us to a graceful balance of attention and privacy between courses. We started with a taste of tender-crumbed bread, bursting with sundried tomato, offset by butter cream. Next we indulged in ostrich carpaccio, presented with cherry compote, earthy green sprouts and tangy goat’s cheese, drizzled with a red wine glaze. The combination of sweet and sour, creamy and sharp danced together in our mouths. Our entrée was an experience in each bite – seared tuna, perfectly pink in the centre – sealed in a jacket of coarse pepper, complemented by star-aniseed roasted plums, anointed with a creamy lemon butter sauce and punctuated by bits of walnut that melted in happy glory. Dining on this food made us feel like royalty but we weren’t finished yet – our final en core was a palette-cleansing dessert of icy orange marmalade and macerated berries that left us feeling refreshed, light and completely spoilt.

After this experience my inner skeptic seems to have vanished without a trace, and with a few weeks left before the “official” Valentine’s Day I’m starting to rethink my feelings on the matter. Why not celebrate with your best friend on that one day of the year? Does it really matter how the tradition began so long as you believe it? And if there’s any way to take the ‘mundane’ out of Monday, a brush with Cupid and time at Cuvée certainly can. Looks like I’ve been shot through the heart after all.

It’s not too late - reserve your Valentine’s Evening at Simonsig’s signature restaurant, Cuvée – perfect for pampering or even a proposal under the stars. The 3-course dinner includes live jazz by The Limehouse Trio, a bottle of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé and a box of handmade chocolates. 19h00 on Monday, 14 February for R350 per person. Vegetarian options are available upon request. Choose between:

· Starter: Roasted Duck, Beetroot and Pomegranate Salad OR Venison Carpaccio served with Crisp Apple, Gooseberries and Mustard-Dill Sauce

· Entrée: Beef Fillet Medallions enriched with Roquefort Cheese, Walnuts and Wild Mushrooms OR Sesame-crusted Norwegian Salmon with Wilted Greens

· Dessert: Dark Chocolate Fondant with Cherry and Marzipan Marbled Ice-cream, and Cointreau-infused, Macerated Watermelon with Orange Zest and Watermelon Sorbet

THE DETAILS:

· AMBIANCE: Romantic luxury – it’s Valentine’s all year long

· LOCATION: Outside Stellenbosch, on the Kromme Rhee Road between the R44 & R304

· HOURS: Lunch Mon-Sun 11H00-15H00; Dinner Wed, Fri, Sat: 19H00-22H00

· EXTRA SPECIAL: Book a private occasion in the luxurious Van Niekerk Room

· RESERVATIONS: Phone 021 888 4932 or email cuvee@simonsig.co.za

Note: The Rosé-inspired menu is available for a limited time until the end of April. Available as a set two- or three –course menu for lunch or dinner, it includes a flute of Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé. R160-R190 per person

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Harvesting a Forty-year Family Legacy – Simonsig’s Kaapse Vonkel

It’s summertime in the Cape winelands. The sun is shining. The afternoons are so heated the air seems to shimmer. The mountain tops above seem heavy, a distant deep purple and the leaves on the vines before me are glowing a luminescent green. Bunches of grapes hang from them like perfect, radiant spheres – and they are ripe for the picking.

This is the very start of harvest season, when these delicate globes take the next step of their journey from the vineyards to our glasses. A time of the year that conjures up romantic images like basket loads of grapes streaming out of the vineyards by day and by night, of grape stomping rituals and most importantly, of bountiful celebration. And this year, the Stellenbosch winery Simonsig has much to celebrate.

Home to Kaapse Vonkel, the acclaimed Méthod Cap Classique (MCC) bubbly, this harvest represents the 40th anniversary since visionary winemaker Frans Malan introduced it to the South African market. It was the first bubbly in South Africa to be made using the traditional Champagne method, a bold move at the time. Under the careful attention of Mr. Malan’s sons, it also became one of the few MCC’s to use the same classic grape combination used in Champagne – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. In other words, it’s about as close as you can get to “real” Champagne without throwing a few hundred rand at an imported bottle.

And why not buy local when such at outstanding MCC is at our fingertips? The recipe for Kaapse Vonkel has paid off in the form of a long list of accolades like numerous 4-star rankings from the Platter’s Wine Guide, top position in the Wine Magazine Cap Classique Challenges, international recognition, and several Veritas awards.

Crisp and bisquity with a citrusy nose and yeasty flavour, Kaapse Vonkel pairs well with seafood like oysters, smoked salmon and sushi. It also pairs well with friends, good times and summertime weather, when you feel inspired to lift your glass in tribute to the accomplishments of the past, the joy of the present, and the possibility of the future. Cheers to Simonsig – may this year’s harvest bring even more sparkle to the Cape.

Monday, January 3, 2011

African Dreams & Wild Encounters - Exploring Chobe, the Okavango, and Glorious Victoria Falls

It is Christmas Day, pre-dawn. Stars still twinkling, moon still waxing. I am exhausted awake, almost like I am dreaming – but a rush of anticipation is urging me on. While in other places doting parents are also up at this hour, playing Santa’s elves, I am preparing for something else altogether – and the last of my checklist is now in place. We are speeding along the road to the airport, rushing through the darkness, about to step into another dimension for a wild encounter with nature – the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls stand waiting. We jump through logistical hoops – boarding passes, luggage check, security clearance, seat belts buckled and finally, glide into take off. Once in the air my stomach lifts too and the landscape changes from coastal to farmland, then great expanses of green obscured by puffy thunderclouds casting long shadows on the ground below them.

As we descend into Zambia we get our first glimpse of Victoria Falls – a series of dramatic cracks in the earth, switchbacks from one hairpin turn to the next, the base of each one hidden in the shadow of its depth. Then finally the mother of them all – the place where the Zambezi launches itself droplet by droplet off the ledge of a 100-metre cliff to explode at the bottom and rise again as vapor as thick as rain, creating mosi-o-tunya – the “smoke that thunders”.

The plane continues its descent and the landscape is scrubby and speckled with trees that remind me of a Dr. Seuss book, like massive broccoli stalks – thin at the base, expanding up to a thick canopy. A graceful touchdown and we are here, in the place of Dr. Livingstone, of tales of historic exploration – the ones that sent shivers of excitement down the backs upstanding citizens across Europe’s urban landscape centuries ago – of malaria and dysentery, of poverty and potholes, of lions, elephants and the wild beauty that comes with unspoken danger.

Stepping out of the comfort of the plane the heat of the place is oppressive and the sweltering sun makes my backpack feel twice as heavy – but I am too excited to mind. This is the first part of a long day’s journey – from a taxi to a plane, to another plane, to a taxi, to walking, to a ferry, to another taxi… ‘til we finally arrive where we were staying our first night, a place in Botswana called Kasane.

It takes more than an hour to travel the distance to Kasane – we find a taxi. Along the way our driver, Nicholas, fills our ears with stories that can only come from the lips of Africa. His mother died when he was a baby – at the time, his father was known by Dutch nationals who had come to Zambia for charity. They gave the child his European name and offered to bring him back to Netherlands, to give him an education. Upon hearing the news, Nicholas’s granny took his father to court – and petitioned to keep the child in Zambia for fear he would not be educated but rather enslaved like so many generations before – although in a distant century. So it was that Nicholas stayed in his country, raised by his grandmother, to become a taxi driver. He told stories of celebration – of dancing until “O3” – 3AM, army-time – and watching out for the many mosquitoes that were jumping and dancing, that sometimes bite. The “mosquitoes” are prostitutes and some have AIDS – he told of seeing many people fall sick – his best friend, gone. We stop for cool drinks at a local place in the township. We are a spectacle to the locals and they stare unabashed. The mood is lively, music pulsing, a group of women are dancing in the dust – a naughty one looks our way, bends over and touches the ground, and swinging her hips provocatively – and laughs open-mouthed at our reaction. Another mosquito, Nicholas warns as we move off, they are all around.

We arrive at Kasane just before dark… it’s been a long day yet my sleep is restless, interrupted by wild dreams induced by anti-malaria tablets where I fend off mosquitoes with stingers like drill bits. I awake to sunrise and the song of laughing birds, sounds I’ve never heard before. My mind is moving faster than me and I can’t wait to hit the road. We collect our transport – a rented 4x4 Toyota Hilux – and at last, we leave for Chobe National Park following the banks of the river, stopping to wonder at zebra and giraffe, baboons, monkeys, various birds, lots of impala and elephant. The roads are mostly sandy with a few stretches of mud and we travel as far west into the park as we can and stay the night in the Linyanti Swamps.

Just before reaching camp we come across a lone elephant munching the trees. He observes us for some time before moving off into the distance. Hearts beating we enter the camp, beautiful and quiet, shaded by jackal berry trees. There are only 3 campsites, each with a view of the river. It feels very lush and green. Hippos are calling to one another from their places in the water, something like the sound of a low and rumbling muffler. We start setting up camp. Thunder is rolling in the distance. Before too long it starts a great downpour but we manage to assemble our tent before the worst of it and sit under cover until it passes. It isn’t too long, maybe 15 minutes, until we can start our campfire and cook supper, braaied chicken, potatoes and butternut. At dusk the true nature of the place reveals itself – sounds of frogs and crickets and the humming of mosquitoes. The hum turns to a buzz. We are in mosquito heaven and they are swarming everywhere. Our lanterns become a beacon to them and we resort to eating in the darkness to avoid becoming the feast ourselves.

This even though we have already slathered ourselves in deet and are wearing the long pants and long sleeves that are recommended. We keep the tent zipped as much as possible and when it’s time for sleep we jump inside quickly, lights off, and zip ourselves inside urgently. Lights on, we still find a few of them have infiltrated our tent and spend the next few minutes slapping and smashing until we think we’ve got them all. Backlit from the outside we surely must have looked strange. The morning is nearly as bad, probably because we don’t expect them to still hang around, but there they are – hovering in air – their stingers visibly drooping behind them ready to take their fill. We pack up and leave as soon as possible not even stopping for breakfast. I count six bites so far.

The next day we head into the Moremi Reserve, part of the Okavango Delta. The roads are not as kind on this day – the “roads” are really just paths stretching out into the wilderness, alternating between patches of loose sand up to your calves or clay-mud pools that drop to the height of your hips – their depths hidden from view. Mostly there are ‘escape routes’ skirting the worst spots but we have to cross something like a lake, as deep as the height of the tires, on a few occasions. I now understand why land rovers have snorkels. Luckily we made it through with the aid of low-gear 4-wheel drive, a couple of white knuckles and determined faces.

We pass open fields of long golden grass, gnarled trees, some snapped at 90-degree angles by passing elephants. We drive in the footsteps of fresh elephant tracks – giant circular marks single-file on the road. In one place we stop to watch two elephants near a small lake and a tree. We are surprised when the rest of the pack comes along – nearly 25 of them – stirring up the dust as they rush to the water’s edge. We watch until they pass out of site – the bush is so thick that even a herd of giant elephants can vanish between the trees. We're nearly to our destination - tonight we stay at Xakanaka Camp, surrounded by open fields and a few fallen trees, and a view of the marshy edges of the Okavango Delta beyond.

It’s nearly sunset and we make our way to the boat station, where some locals live in army tents and offer guided tours of the delta. They are pretty nonchalant – yes, sure, a tour – ok, it’s kind of late you know. I guess we’re a dime a dozen – more tourists in a place they see every day, perhaps subduing its wonder. We rent a motorized boat for an hour-long ride at sunset and sit on the roof top, our driver, named Punch, below. We pass a few luxury camps with chalets and restaurants on the water’s edge. They all look quite nice and sleepy, like holiday relaxation. The driver moves us slowly through the water and we watch the sun as it starts to set, reflecting on the water.

A few minutes in and the driver stops and idles… it’s long enough that I start to wonder why… and suddenly an angry male hippopotamus bursts like a torpedo from underwater, his giant mouth gaping, yellow teeth exposed, and there is no doubt that he’s coming after the boat! It seemed to happen in slow motion, an incredible interaction with wildness you could never imagine or recreate. The driver pounces on the gas and jerks us out there with such force I jolt backwards and grab onto the railing to stop myself from falling. As we reach safety Punch explains that hippos can outrun humans, even underwater, and this one is known to take issue with the passing boats, harassing them and even biting holes in the hull. Punch had stopped the boat because he wasn’t able to spot the hippo anywhere in the water, suspecting he might be lying in wait beneath the surface. After that the rest of the cruise is pretty relaxed, we stop off to see indigenous birds resting in the trees and watch the sunset as the reeds lining the delta turn a rich golden hue.

The next day we travel to Savuti Camp, our last night in Chobe before heading back to Kasane. The road is wilder, sandy in places and thick with mud in others. We pass through a meadow of green grass and dead trees, the road reaching interminably before us. The sky turns a moody blue and the clouds seem to converge. Lightening wakes up the sky and a low rolling thunder warns us of our future. The rain comes down, soaking the landscape and the colours emerge saturated and rich. We worry at the lightning bolts all around us, the thunder is roaring and rain streams down. The worst doesn’t last long and actually helps pack the sandy tracks for an easier journey. Eventually the lighting passes and the wild storm that seemed inevitable moves off in another direction – all is calm and the sun begins to set.

We arrive at Savuti, the largest of the camping areas we've stayed in so far, with about 12 sites set in a circle around the ablutions block. The ablutions feel more like a fortress out of Jurassic Park, set in the center of a cement security wall. The wall is built to the standards of a dam, secured by earth on the inside, and access is via a heavy iron gate set with a spring to ensure its closure. We learn this has been built to protect the showers from the elephants who repeatedly destroyed them by ripping the roof off and knocking the walls down during dry seasons to get to the taps inside. Imagine the elephants’ frustration at having to migrate hundreds of kilometers due to thirst, only to arrive and witness comfortable campers showering away. No wonder the elephants were driven to extreme measures.

Darkness falls and an eerie feeling creeps in. From time to time we shine our flashlights around, checking for any orange eyes (predator eyes) that might be watching in the distance. Luckily there were no predators but there were tens of little eyes shining back at us – small animals like mongoose – we were surrounded. We try to settle in next to the fire and now hear a loud noise like crackling branches. A giant black shape forms nearby – the silhouette is barely discernible yet I feel an unmistakable presence. We shine a torch and there it is – a single giant eye is looking back at us – then the other – the eyes of a bull elephant. It is incredible to sit here with this giant so nearby, and I dare not move or make a noise for fear of startling the thing. He stops at the tree above our heads and nibbles a few leaves then circles, tries out some of the grass a few yards away and finally wanders off into the darkness.

In the morning we wake to the sounds of birds I’d never seen before full of beautiful colours. Hyena tracks are on the ground through our site but luckily we had packed all of our food away, inside the truck, for safety. We have a full day of driving to get back to Kasane but take time for an early morning game drive in the nearby surrounds – we see a few Elephant families in groups of eight or more. We seem to happen upon their morning routine as they each approach a lake to drink and bathe before moving off to spread dirt on themselves with their trunks (protecting their skin and keeping themselves cool) and eat the foliage. One trumpets in our direction and makes as if he’s going to charge – but he is a juvenile and only testing the waters.

In Kasane we plan to take a 3-hour river cruise. We get there just in time and the cruise takes us past more hippos, buck and a few crocodiles. In the dryer season you can see all kinds of animals on the river banks including elephants, giraffe and zebra. The next morning we set off for Livingstone and the Victoria Falls – a taxi to a ferry to a taxi and then the backpackers where we will stay the night.

We consider taking the public bus but it is going on to Lusaka and the crowds of people are everywhere trying to get on – at one stage they open the bus for boarding and the crowd swells into a massive bottleneck as they all try at once to squeeze through the doors, heaving and arguing with one another. The luggage surrounding the bus could have filled it alone and I imagine them trying to tie it all onto the roof top later with all manner of rope. Whenever the breeze graces us the smell of Africa tickles our noses with electrifying audacity and even my nose hair seems to curl in disdain. Between all of the squeezing and shoving the ticket guy advises us the taxi is a better option since the bus seems oversold and we manage to find one soon after.

Once in Livingstone we have lunch and then my first bout of Zambezi tummy – luckily it doesn’t last long – and then off to Victoria Falls. The noise is all encompassing. The vapor rises and fills the air with a mist as thick as rain in some places. We take the afternoon to explore the area along the various walks and viewpoints, watching the river rafters below navigate the white water. Along the top people are actually wading through the water, just before the falls, some even lying down on exposed rocks to see the falls stream past them and land below. Occasionally we hear a frenzied scream, not from the waders losing their footing but from the bungee jumpers above. This is slightly disconcerting above the roar of the water.

We hike down to the bottom of the falls along a trail to the edge of the “Boiling Pot” the place where the rough water passes through the canyon walls, where the river resumes its course. Trekking down is a near vertical descent into a tropical zone of tall palm trees, vines and greenery, the sound of the falls is graced by calling birds and gurgling streams. Once at the water’s edge it is amazing to look back up at the wonder of the falls that we’ve seen from all the other angles and have final perspective. Taking a last look we turn to go and just then the sun peaks through the afternoon clouds and the entire view warms in an array of golden light.



Victoria Falls is an incredible end to the trip, one of the most beautiful and dramatic things I’ve seen, and we head back to our lodge to celebrate the journey with a champagne toast. It is our last night in Zambia – and in the morning we make the journey home – a taxi, a delay, two planes, a taxi and long drive later we arrive on our doorstep at the stroke of midnight - just in time to cheer the New Year. I open the door and take a deep breath of home – the scent of the milkwood trees and the sea float in the air around me. I reflect that just this morning I was in hot dusty Zambia and how strange it is to be home again – suddenly, like maybe it was all just a dream.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Tasting the Good Life at Waterkloof Wine Estate

On the scale of romantic daydreams, few wine estates let your expectations soar as high as Waterkloof does. Before you even arrive you have visions that maybe, just for one day, you can feel like a millionaire, meandering the in the vineyard, taking in the view, nibbling on artisanal cheese and sampling world-class wine. “This is the good life,” you might say to trusty Jeeves while gazing out the window, “by golly, this is the good life indeed.”

The windows at Waterkloof are no ordinary windows – no, no – they are 10-meter tall walls of green glass set into a concrete frame that form a work of modern architecture set proudly on the slopes of the Schapenberg. Vineyards surround the building, rising 300 dramatic meters above sea level, against the backdrop of the Hottentots-Holland and Helderberg Mountains beyond. From inside, the open plan space feels decadent – and with a view like this you can’t help but stand a little taller. A section of the dining area peaks out farther from the building – seeming to float in midair – greedily taking an extra helping of the view. The tasting area, defined by leather loungers, is centrally placed. The gravitational cellar, set behind another pane of glass, gives you the feeling you’re observing a rare species in very a glamorous aquarium focused on the wonders of another kind of liquid altogether.

I had always wanted to visit Waterkloof so when the opportunity to enjoy a tasting and Ploughman’s lunch with my dearest presented itself, I jumped for it. Better yet – we were also going to explore the vineyards on a two-hour meander by horseback – part of a special seasonal package. The timing couldn’t have been better – in the last few weeks before the silly season I was feeling like a getaway more than ever.

At last, the day came. We arrived at Orion Stables & Riding Academy where we would begin our ride, a loop from the stables to Waterkloof and back again. We met our guide, Monique, who introduced us to our horses – or “mounts,” as they say. The wind was blowing and whipped my hair wildly – I felt like I was caught in the draft of a giant outdoor hair dryer – and this was not helping my mood.

I was feeling a little anxious.

You see, I had only done this once before. And she was standing right in front of me – looking down at me, towering over me. She was so much bigger than I thought. She stared at me with those dark, soft eyes, and waited for me to make the first move. Her name is Monami, a former world-class show jumper now enjoying her retirement in the Cape wine lands – something many humans dream of but never attain. Our guide assured me she’s a gentle thing – and she was, sweet as pie. We met and I took my place in the saddle. While we waited for the others I talked with her, “Nice girl,” I said, “Beautiful, girl. My, just look at the view, it’s the Cape Floral Kingdom before us.” We began our journey and carried on talking in this way, or at least I carried on talking in this way, as we went.

The vines were shining in the sun, glowing shades of green and yellow. My mind wandered. I felt like I was in a scene from the pioneer days – wafts of the past flickered across the landscape. These fields, set up high with a perfect few of False Bay, were once used more than 300-years ago as a lookout by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, once an unscrupulous Governor of the Cape who sent his men to be the first to spot the trading ships entering the bay. The ships would be in need of fresh supplies and whoever got there first would make the sale. For competing Cape farmers, it was a race but van der Stel’s view gave him an unfair advantage. By the time the rest of the farmers arrived at the beach, no doubt huffing, puffing and sweating from hustling their ox cars laden with goods, he would already be closing shop, counting the money he’d already made and looking forward to a breezy ride home.

I woke from my daydream and I was back in the moment, the vineyards all around. It was beautiful spending time among the vines and it was quiet – so very quiet. I felt only the rhythm of our gentle pace, the sun on my skin and the feeling of nature in my spirit. Off in the distance the mountains seemed like an impenetrable wall, rising steeply, and the hills in the distance seem to gradually plunge to kneel at the base of the valley.

I could see Waterkloof then, not too far away. The structure of the building was a contrast to the land – hard edges and materials, and it shone in the morning light. We were greeted by Christiaan, the farm manager, who helped us show our horses to their resting place for some fresh water and hay snacks.

We were shown to the tasting area and joined by Sonja – a bubbly and vibrant lady who guided us through the tasting menu with friendly enthusiasm and technical detail. The wines were in the European-style – not overly fruity. We made our way through the Sauvignon Blancs – trying to decide which one was our favourite – a toss-up between the ever so slightly oaked Circumstance, still tight with mineral tones, and the Waterkloof, crisp and flinty, normally only available in the restaurant. The cheese platter arrived and we sampled the wines over again – pairing this one with that one – still trying to pick a favourite while indulgence melted in our mouths. After the whites we tried the Circumstance Cape Coral Mourvedre, a dry rosé, playfully pink – a good choice for a Saturday’s lunch. New globe glasses were presented as we moved into the reds. My favorites were the Waterkloof Cabernet Sauvignon, a big wine – smooth, dark and juicy – and the Waterkloof Shiraz, a good balance of peppery spice and smooth berry notes –a special occasion wine, I think.

Christiaan was at the door, ready to take us back to our horses for the return leg of our journey. We climbed the hill and saddled up. Before turning to go I patted my mount, Monami for one of the last times, sighed at the beauty of the experience and picked up our conversation where I left off. “Yes,” I said, gazing at the landscape, “This is the good life. By golly, this is the good life indeed.”

The Details:

· Located outside Somerset West on the M9 Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road

· The horse riding experience costs R420 per person, including wine and a meat and cheese platter; to book contact Orion Stables & Riding Academy at 021 8581938

· To reserve your table at Waterkloof Restaurant contact 021 858 1491 or email: restaurant@waterkloofwines.co.za.

· For more information visit www.waterkloofwines.co.za or call 021 858 1292