Closer to Home: Knorhoek’s Towerbosch Earth Kitchen

These days the wine lands represent ideas of the good life - sophistication, culture, class - and people travel to far flung destinations around the globe just for a taste. Yet here in South Africa we have the best of these things plus the pioneering foundation of our history to draw inspiration from. Under its romantic sheen the heart of our wine country is formed by the simplistic honesty of farming, good old fashioned values and the persevering strength of family.

A few generational farms still exist – special places like the Knorhoek Wine Estate in Stellenbosch – and today I’ve been invited to lunch. I’ve heard it feels like home – that it’s a place with the power to revive old memories, to make them feel new again, especially the mundane ones that multiply in importance as the years go by, like afternoons with family over a good home cooked meal, or when I was a girl playing in the garden for hours on end. I live far away from my family now and those times hold a special place in my heart, so I found the prospect of revisiting them intriguing.

From the outside the building looks like a fairy hut – inviting and warm, low to the ground – and it stretches along the length of the pool. Inside it feels light and airy with a vaulted ceiling and exposed wooden beams, from which a contemporary artwork is suspended for dramatic effect. Like a new age chandelier it’s a bird’s nest of tangled twigs and branches, foraged from the grounds of the estate before being white-washed and woven in place. Punctuating this organic bramble are glowing bouquets of glass bulbs and patches of antique cutlery – floating butter knives and hovering spoons, along with tea cups and saucers in odd bins of china, porcelain and ceramics – caught in mid-air. The dining area is flanked by a lounge filled with books, travelogues and at least a decade’s worth of neatly packed National Geographic magazines, like big blocks of wonder waiting to be unlocked. Yellow curtains dance on the breeze, serenaded by the contemporary Afrikaans music that wanders from the kitchen to the dining area.

Our host, Jean Pierre, invites us to settle in and shares the Asado menu with us, a traditional Sunday roast-up with all the trimmings. We order a bottle of the Knorhoek Cabernet Sauvignon – rated four-stars by the John Platter Guide and a great partner for the lamb to come. We toast and savour our first sips - juicy, berry rich, classically oaked. Dish by dish, lunch is introduced. We start with empanadas – a pocket stuffed with lamb encased in a light shell. Shortly afterwards we’re treated to fresh bread – the crust is crisp and the crumb is soft, still warm from the oven – accompanied by homemade apricot jam – I think the best I’ve ever had. The next course is a generous bowl of smorsnoek and curried onions – a lovely combination of sweet, sour and spicy.

Before the main course arrives we take some time to meander outside on the lawn and lounge in the shade of the gazebo. We chat with a large family nearby, enjoying the day at picnic tables under the oaks. Their children romp freely just out of earshot but still within sight – climbing over the jungle gym, holding court on the stage (available for formal functions) and rearranging the deck chairs between splashes in the pool. As I watch them I can’t help but feel the twinkle in my eyes.

Back at the table the curtain begins to rise on the main event. Like performers in a gastronomic ballet the wait staff deliver choreographed indulgence to the table – broccoli and cauliflower gratin, marmalade sweet potatoes, crispy roast potato wedges, a salad just picked from the garden and finally, our new centrepiece, a platter of perfectly pink sirloin and shoulder of lamb so tender it seems to throw itself onto my fork with the slightest bit of nudging – just like my dad’s. Dessert is a toffee apple pudding – sweetly dense and gooey, almost like my grandma’s famous upside-down-cake. With each bite I feel a small helping of comfort, and maybe – just maybe – a little closer to home.

• LUNCH: WED-SUN FROM 12H00 TIL 3H00 (BOOKING ESSENTIAL)
• DINNER: ON REQUEST, FOR A MINIMUM OF 15 GUESTS
• LICENSED: YES
• AMBIANCE: CLOSER TO HOME
• AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R130 FOR TWO COURSES OR R160 FOR THREE COURSES; ASADO LUNCH, R165
• ADDRESS: AT THE END OF KNORHOEK ROAD, OFF THE R44, STELLENBOSCH
• TEL: 021 865 2958
• EMAIL: TOWERBOSCH@KNORHOEK.CO.ZA

Port Elizabeth’s Unexpected Thai Treasures

Port Elizabeth is known for its sandy beaches, flip-flop vibe, and most widely for its place on the map as the Garden Route’s gateway – but it’s also the unlikely home to two Thai food gems that make a visit a veritable treasure hunt. Theresa Lozier uncovers some of its hidden bounty.

In Thailand, food is an intrinsic part of culture – so much so that the traditional Thai greeting is not “hello” or “how are you?” – it is, “Have you eaten yet?” The preparation and presentation of food, and even the way it is shared and enjoyed, is linked to social norms and fundamental beliefs that help form Thailand’s social fabric. Thai people believe that dishes are meant to be shared, that it’s bad luck to eat alone, that wasting food angers the God of Rice and can even result in famine, and that beautiful presentation pleases the traditional monarch, the King of Siam, to no end. Even the Royal Thai Embassy’s web site has an official listing of authentic Thai restaurants, endorsing them as “a way to experience Thailand while in South Africa”. Not surprisingly, the list of these establishments runs long in foodie capitals like Cape Town and Johannesburg, but includes only two in the whole Eastern Cape – both of them in Port Elizabeth.

When it comes to food, it’s hard to imagine humble Port Elizabeth competing with the likes of Cape Town and Johannesburg, each with hoards of resident celebrity chefs competing on an international level. Be that as it may, this laid-back beach town has something its big sister and brother strive to recreate – a no frills authenticity and an honest, soulful nature that can’t help but make everyone feel at home. So perhaps it is fitting then that Port Elizabeth should host two of South Africa’s most authentic Thai restaurants, both intent on making their guests feel welcome by sharing the community spirit of their culture in their own unique ways.

Natti’s Thai Kitchen – An evening with friends

It’s a balmy summer’s evening and a slight breeze in the air brings welcome relief to the day. We’re arriving at a restored Victorian house in Port Elizabeth’s historic quarter, now home to Natti’s Thai Kitchen, an institution among locals. We approach the door under the twinkling fairy lights – step by step our noses are tickled by the aromas of our dinner to come. Mark, the owner, greets us at the door barefoot, his hair wavy and his smile as warm as the kitchen. It’s our first time meeting but we chat like we’re friends already.

The walls of the restaurant are painted in hues of yellow and the fiery red drapes glow in the soft candlelight. As my eyes adjust Mark leads us past a giant chalkboard menu, a painting of Buddha, and an antique fireplace. We walk over the creaking wooden floors and out onto the patio where we have a view of the flowers and herbs in his private garden. The scene is complete with a fishpond and an inviting swinging lounger – I imagine myself relaxing there sometime after our meal.

While we are being seated we chat about the Thai flavours we love – spicy and savoury, coriander, seafood and green curry, creamy coconut. It feels like more of a conversation than an order and with that, Mark disappears into the kitchen promising to return with something we will enjoy. A short while later he presents us with a mixed platter of spicy satay, fresh spring rolls and calamari served with Thai dips like Nam Prik Kapi (chili) and Nam Jim Kai (sweet), everything homemade by Natti herself, Mark’s wife, a Thai national. For our main course we enjoy the fish curry, full of satisfying seafood and flavours that dance in my mouth. I savour and cheer with each bite. We finish with the tempura banana and ice cream – crunchy and creamy, warm and cold, sweet and salty – the perfect finish to a lovely evening. Time to find that swinging lounger.

• HOURS: OPEN FOR DINNER, TUES – SAT, FROM 18H30 ‘TIL LATE
• LICENSED: NO, BRING YOUR OWN DRINKS; NO CORKAGE FEE
• AMBIANCE: LIKE YOU’RE WITH FRIENDS
• AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R70
• ADDRESS: 5 PARK LANE, CENTRAL, PORT ELIZABETH
• TEL: 041 373 2763

Narai Siam Thai Kitchen – A celebration of colour

Entering the doors of Narai Siam Thai Kitchen, on a quiet out of the way street in an unassuming converted house, is like being simultaneously smacked by an array of bright colours and carried away to an Asian version of Carnival. Every table, wall and even the ceiling is adorned in authentic Thai tapestries in hot pink, yellow, green and blue. Shimmering mirrors reflect the light like little disco balls, making this tiny space feel larger than life. The feeling is festive yet casual, perfect for groups in a celebratory mood while window nook seating offers a semi-private space for smaller parties.

My friend and I are looking forward to a lunch out, a celebration of nothing and everything in particular. We make jovial small talk with our host who brings us our order-by-number menus. We start with a classic, an order of crispy spring rolls, and dipping sauce, and order a bottle of Noble Hill Sauvignon Blanc –perfect with just about any food with its lemony, crisp finish.

Our host returns promptly with the starter and wine and takes the rest of our order. I go for my favourite, #30 Penang Curry with Chicken, and my friend has #57, the Pad Thai. Just a few bites in and we are loving the food, the vibe and our funny host. The restaurant starts to fill with the voices of other patrons and all of them seem just a jovial as the surroundings – it feels like we’ve happened upon a mid-day’s party. When the coast is clear we take turns sneaking away to have a peek at the infamous men’s loo – where the décor is guaranteed to bring a laugh, if not a blush as red as the sweet chili sauce! We cool down over Thai iced teas – brewed to perfection, they are satisfyingly sweet, authentically Thai and beautiful to look at – like the entire restaurant experience distilled into one glass.

• HOURS: OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER, MON – SAT, 12H00 ‘TIL 23H00
• LICENSED: YES; R35 CORKAGE FEE
• AMBIANCE: CASUAL & FESTIVE, LIKE A THAI CARNIVAL
• AVERAGE MAIN COURSE: R55
• ADDRESS: 20 WORRAKER STREET (BETWEEN 2^ND & 3^RD AVENUES), NEWTON PARK, PORT ELIZABETH
• TEL: 041 363 8126